Reference
Companion planting
122 pairings in the database. Companion planting combines crops and herbs that benefit each other through pest deterrence, pollinator support, nutrient cycling, or shading. Some pairings are well-documented; others are traditional practice with mixed evidence. Each entry below is tagged with its relationship type and rationale.
Beneficial
plant together
-
good
Apple + Chive
Chives planted around apple trees deter aphids and apple scab pressure through alliin volatiles.
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good
Apple + Comfrey
Comfrey accumulates potassium and phosphorus, providing a chop-and-drop mulch beneath fruit trees.
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good
Apple + Yarrow
Yarrow attracts predatory insects and parasitoid wasps that reduce codling moth pressure.
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good
Peach + Tansy
Tansy repels Japanese beetles and ants, both pests that affect peach foliage and fruit.
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good
Peach + Garlic
Garlic planted around peach trees suppresses peach borer and provides general fungal-pressure reduction.
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good
Pear + Borage
Borage attracts pollinators and predatory insects, supporting pear fruit set and pest control.
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good
Plum European + Garlic
Garlic discourages plum curculio and provides general antifungal benefit beneath stone fruit.
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good
Plum Japanese + Clover
White clover fixes nitrogen and provides a living mulch under Japanese plum trees.
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good
Cherry Sweet + Clover
Clover groundcover supports beneficial insects and reduces erosion in sloped cherry orchards.
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good
Cherry Sour + Tansy
Tansy reduces fruit fly pressure on tart cherries and discourages aphids.
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good
Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
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good
Persimmon American + Pawpaw
Both natives thrive in similar soils and contribute to a polyculture that supports native pollinators and fauna.
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good
Persimmon Asian + Comfrey
Comfrey provides nutrient cycling beneath Asian persimmon, which is otherwise low-input.
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good
Pomegranate + Lavender
Lavender shares pomegranate's drought tolerance and attracts pollinators during pomegranate bloom.
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good
Jujube + Thyme
Thyme groundcover suits jujube's low-water profile and deters cabbage moth and aphid populations.
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good
Pawpaw + Spicebush
Native spicebush hosts swallowtail butterflies and complements pawpaw's understory niche.
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good
Apricot + Basil
Basil's volatile oils discourage stone-fruit pests and support pollinator visits.
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good
Mulberry + Comfrey
Comfrey beneath mulberry recycles nutrients from deep-rooted mineral uptake.
-
good
Apple + Nasturtium
Nasturtium acts as a trap crop for aphids and codling moth larvae.
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good
Peach + Nasturtium
Nasturtium attracts predatory insects and serves as a trap crop for stone-fruit aphids.
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good
Cherry Sweet + Marigold
French marigolds suppress nematodes that affect cherry root health in sandy soils.
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good
Fig + Borage
Borage attracts pollinators and supports beneficial-insect populations near fig plantings.
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good
Plum European + Yarrow
Yarrow draws predatory wasps that parasitize plum curculio.
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good
Pear + Clover
Clover groundcover fixes nitrogen and supports pollinator activity during pear bloom.
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good
Apricot + Tansy
Tansy reduces aphid and Japanese beetle pressure on apricot trees.
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good
Mulberry + Clover
Mulberry's deep roots and clover's nitrogen-fixing surface roots create a productive low-input pairing.
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good
Highbush Blueberry + Clover
White clover groundcover suppresses weeds and fixes nitrogen without competing aggressively in the shallow blueberry root zone.
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good
Highbush Blueberry + Thyme
Creeping thyme thrives in the acidic mulched conditions blueberries require and attracts pollinators during bloom.
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good
Rabbiteye Blueberry + Thyme
Thyme tolerates the acidic soil and full sun rabbiteyes need and supports beneficial insect populations.
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good
Raspberry Red + Garlic
Garlic planted between raspberry rows discourages cane-borer flight and provides general antifungal pressure against cane diseases.
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good
Raspberry Red + Tansy
Tansy attracts predatory wasps and discourages Japanese beetles, both significant raspberry pests.
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good
Raspberry Black + Garlic
Garlic interplanted with black raspberries reduces aphid pressure and the viral diseases aphids transmit.
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good
Raspberry Yellow + Garlic
Garlic's pungent root exudates discourage soil-borne fungi that cause raspberry root rot.
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good
Blackberry + Tansy
Tansy's volatile oils repel beetles and aphids that target ripening blackberry canes.
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good
Blackberry + Garlic
Garlic between blackberry rows reduces fungal pressure on canes during humid weather.
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good
Strawberry June Bearing + Borage
Borage is the classic strawberry companion: it attracts pollinators, repels some pests, and reportedly improves berry flavor in adjacent rows.
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good
Strawberry June Bearing + Thyme
Thyme as an edge planting around strawberry beds repels worms and supports predatory insects.
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good
Strawberry Everbearing + Borage
Borage extends pollinator support across the long fruiting season of day-neutral strawberries.
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good
Strawberry Everbearing + Thyme
Creeping thyme suppresses weeds between strawberry plants without competing for moisture or nutrients.
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good
Currant Red + Clover
White clover under red currants provides nitrogen and suppresses competing weeds during the long Ribes establishment period.
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good
Currant Black + Clover
Clover groundcover preserves moisture and supplies steady nitrogen to black currants without aggressive competition.
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good
Currant White + Clover
Clover suits the partial shade white currants tolerate and supports a stable pollinator population during early bloom.
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good
Gooseberry + Clover
Clover under gooseberries smothers weeds and reduces the soil compaction that increases gooseberry root stress.
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good
Elderberry + Comfrey
Comfrey accumulates potassium and phosphorus deep in the soil profile, recycling nutrients into a chop-and-drop mulch beneath productive elderberries.
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good
Aronia + Clover
Clover provides steady nitrogen for aronia, a heavy producer that benefits from consistent low-rate fertility.
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good
Honeyberry + Clover
Clover suits the cool-climate haskap planting and supports early-season pollinators when haskap blooms (often before most other forage).
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good
Saskatoon + Clover
Saskatoons benefit from clover's nitrogen contribution and the pollinator support clover provides during the early saskatoon bloom.
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good
Elderberry + Clover
Clover beneath elderberries supports the early-summer pollinator population that ensures full fruit set on the large flower cymes.
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good
Walnut Black + Pawpaw
Pawpaw is among the few fruit crops with documented juglone tolerance. The two natives can be planted together in the same understory polyculture.
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good
Walnut Black + Clover
White clover tolerates juglone and provides nitrogen and pollinator support beneath black walnut where most groundcovers fail.
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good
Pecan + Clover
Crimson and white clover under pecan canopies fix nitrogen, support pollinators, and reduce mowing needs without competing for the deep pecan root zone.
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good
Chestnut + Comfrey
Comfrey accumulates potassium and phosphorus deep in the soil, providing chop-and-drop mulch beneath chestnuts as they ramp into heavy bearing.
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good
Chestnut + Clover
Clover groundcover under chestnut suppresses competing weeds and supports the soil mycorrhizal network chestnuts depend on for nut development.
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good
Hazelnut + Clover
Clover suits hazelnut's preference for cool root zones and well-drained soil; the nitrogen contribution supports vigorous shoot growth in hedgerow plantings.
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good
Almond + Borage
Borage extends pollinator support during almond's early bloom (often before most other nectar sources), improving fruit set in self-incompatible varieties.
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good
Walnut English + Clover
English walnut produces less juglone than black walnut, and clover groundcover provides nitrogen and pollinator support without measurable suppression.
-
good
Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
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good
Tomato + Marigold
French marigolds (Tagetes patula) suppress root-knot nematodes, the major hidden tomato pest in sandy southern soils. Plant 4-6 weeks before tomatoes for maximum effect.
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good
Pepper Sweet + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
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good
Pepper Hot + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
-
good
Eggplant + Marigold
Marigolds deter flea beetles, eggplant's most damaging early-season pest, and suppress soil nematodes. Plant marigolds as a border around eggplant beds.
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good
Potato + Bean Bush
Beans fix nitrogen for potato uptake and reportedly repel Colorado potato beetle. Potato in turn deters Mexican bean beetle. Plant in alternating rows.
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good
Corn + Bean Pole
Two of the Three Sisters. Beans climb the corn stalk providing structural support and fix nitrogen for corn's high feeding requirement. Plant beans 2 weeks after corn so corn establishes first.
-
good
Corn + Summer Squash
The third of the Three Sisters with corn and bean. Squash leaves shade the soil reducing weed pressure and conserving moisture; spiny squash stems deter raccoons from corn.
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good
Corn + Winter Squash
Winter squash variant of the Three Sisters. The long-season squash matures alongside corn and is harvested at the end of the season; vines suppress weeds throughout.
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good
Bean Pole + Summer Squash
Beans fix nitrogen for squash's heavy feeding. Squash leaves shade soil at the bean's base. Both prefer similar warm-soil culture and water.
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good
Carrot + Onion
Onion smell confuses carrot rust fly. Carrots in turn deter onion thrips. The classic European mixed-bed companion pairing for both crops.
-
good
Carrot + Leek
Same dynamic as carrot-onion. Leek volatile compounds deter carrot rust fly. Both are slow-growing crops with similar season length, well-suited to a shared bed.
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good
Carrot + Radish
Radish germinates fast and marks the carrot row (which germinates slowly), then is harvested before carrots compete for space. Radishes also break up surface crust for emerging carrot seedlings.
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good
Lettuce + Radish
Radishes mature in 22-30 days and are pulled before lettuce reaches full size. Same cool-season schedule, same water needs, efficient use of bed space.
-
good
Lettuce + Tomato
Lettuce planted at tomato's base benefits from afternoon shade as the tomato grows, extending the lettuce harvest into early summer. Different root depths avoid competition.
-
good
Lettuce + Carrot
Both prefer cool weather and consistent moisture. Lettuce shallow roots, carrot deep roots — no competition. Lettuce maturing first leaves space for carrot expansion.
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good
Spinach + Strawberry June Bearing
Spinach uses the bed in early spring before strawberries flower, then is pulled. Spinach roots break compacted soil and add organic matter when tilled in.
-
good
Cabbage + Thyme
Thyme volatile oils deter cabbage moths and the imported cabbageworm caterpillars. Underplant cabbage rows with creeping thyme as living mulch.
-
good
Broccoli + Thyme
Same dynamic as cabbage. Thyme repels brassica moths through volatile oils. Productive perennial-with-annual pairing in raised beds.
-
good
Kale + Thyme
Thyme deters cabbage moths and supports beneficial insect populations. Kale and thyme both tolerate cooler weather, can share a bed for two full seasons before kale is replaced.
-
good
Cabbage + Dill
Dill flowers attract parasitoid wasps that target cabbage moth eggs. Plant dill at cabbage row ends and let some go to flower for the predator effect.
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good
Cabbage + Onion
Onion smell confuses cabbage moth. Both prefer similar moisture and fertility. The onion-cabbage interplanting is a Northern European tradition.
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good
Broccoli + Dill
Dill umbel flowers feed parasitoid wasps that control cabbageworm. Plant dill alongside broccoli rows from transplant onward.
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good
Kale + Nasturtium
Nasturtium serves as a trap crop drawing aphids away from kale. Nasturtium also attracts hoverflies and other aphid predators.
-
good
Cucumber + Bean Pole
Beans fix nitrogen for cucumbers' heavy feeding. Both can share a trellis structure. Bean foliage shades the soil at cucumber roots.
-
good
Cucumber + Nasturtium
Nasturtium repels cucumber beetle through volatile compounds. Plant a row of nasturtiums upwind of cucumbers, or scatter seeds among the cucumber bed.
-
good
Summer Squash + Nasturtium
Nasturtium deters squash bug and squash vine borer. Plant nasturtium at the base of squash plants where it can clamber over the soil.
-
good
Winter Squash + Nasturtium
Nasturtium deters squash bugs, the dominant winter squash pest. Underplant nasturtium with squash so it sprawls between the larger plants.
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good
Pumpkin + Nasturtium
Nasturtium repels squash bug and cucumber beetle. Both vine-spreading habit suits a wide pumpkin patch.
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good
Watermelon + Radish
Radishes deter cucumber beetles, watermelon's primary pest. Plant radishes near watermelon hills and let some bolt to flower as a beetle deterrent.
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good
Onion + Thyme
Thyme is reported to deter onion fly. Both tolerate dry conditions and similar fertility. Productive intercropping in raised beds.
-
good
Garlic + Strawberry June Bearing
Garlic deters strawberry weevils and slugs. Garlic planted in fall around strawberry rows is harvested in early summer, leaving space for strawberry runners.
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good
Bean Bush + Marigold
Marigolds deter Mexican bean beetle through volatile compounds. Plant a marigold border around bush bean blocks.
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good
Bean Pole + Marigold
Marigolds deter Mexican bean beetle. The classic American home-garden bean-with-marigold interplanting.
-
good
Potato + Marigold
French marigolds suppress root-knot nematodes that damage potato tubers. Plant 4-6 weeks before potatoes.
-
good
Asparagus + Tomato
Asparagus releases compounds that suppress nematodes around tomato roots. Tomato volatile oils deter asparagus beetle. Long-term perennial-with-annual pairing in dedicated beds.
-
good
Asparagus + Basil
Basil deters asparagus beetle and provides ground cover during summer when asparagus ferns don't fully shade the bed.
-
good
Tomato + Borage
Borage attracts pollinators and beneficial insects, and is reported to deter tomato hornworm. Plant a row of borage at the end of tomato beds.
-
good
Pepper Sweet + Marigold
Marigolds deter aphids, the primary virus vector for peppers, and suppress soil nematodes. Plant as a border around pepper beds.
-
good
Lettuce + Cucumber
Lettuce shallow roots and cucumber deeper roots avoid competition. Lettuce can be undersown beneath cucumber trellises for late spring shade benefit.
-
good
Spinach + Radish
Same cool-season culture, both bolt in heat. Radish marks the row and matures faster, leaving space for spinach to fill in.
-
good
Carrot + Pea
Peas fix nitrogen for carrots and are pulled by midsummer leaving space for carrots to size up. Both prefer cool weather and the same bed depth.
-
good
Pea + Radish
Same cool-season culture. Radish matures fast and is pulled before pea vines fully sprawl. Radishes deter the cucumber beetles that occasionally damage pea seedlings.
-
good
Okra + Pepper Hot
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
-
good
Sweet Potato + Bean Bush
Beans fix nitrogen for sweet potato. Sweet potato vines spread to cover soil and suppress weeds in the bean rows.
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good
Kale + Onion
Onion smell deters cabbage moth. Both tolerate cool weather and frost. Underplant kale rows with onion sets in fall.
-
good
Cabbage + Mint
Mint volatile oils repel cabbage moth and many beetles. Grow mint in a sunken pot near cabbage to contain its aggressive spreading habit.
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good
Cilantro + Tomato
Cilantro flowers feed beneficial wasps that control hornworm and aphid populations. Plant cilantro to the north of tomatoes so the taller plants don't shade it.
Antagonistic
avoid pairing
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avoid
Apple + Walnut
Black walnut produces juglone, an allelopathic compound that suppresses many fruit trees including apple.
-
avoid
Pear + Fennel
Fennel inhibits the growth of most fruit trees through root exudates.
-
avoid
Highbush Blueberry + Rabbiteye Blueberry
Highbush and rabbiteye blueberries share zone 7 overlap but require different soil pH and chill regimes; planting both rarely succeeds because the soil management for one stresses the other.
-
avoid
Raspberry Red + Blackberry
Red raspberries and blackberries should be separated by at least 600 feet because viral diseases including raspberry mosaic spread rapidly between them via aphid vectors.
-
avoid
Walnut Black + Apple
Black walnut releases juglone from roots, leaves, and decomposing nut hulls. Apple is highly juglone-sensitive and will decline within 50-80 feet of a mature black walnut.
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avoid
Walnut Black + Blackberry
Blackberry shows moderate juglone sensitivity. Plants within the dripline of a mature black walnut typically fail to establish or decline over consecutive seasons.
-
avoid
Walnut Black + Highbush Blueberry
Highbush blueberry is acutely juglone-sensitive. Plant blueberries at least 80 feet from any black walnut to avoid stunting and decline.
-
avoid
Tomato + Fennel
Fennel root exudates inhibit the growth of most garden vegetables including tomato. Plant fennel in its own bed at the garden edge.
-
avoid
Tomato + Corn
Tomato and corn share two damaging pests: corn earworm (also called tomato fruitworm) and corn smut shares some hosts. Separate them by at least 30 feet.
-
avoid
Tomato + Cabbage
Brassicas release allelopathic compounds that slow tomato growth. The two crops also have very different water needs (cabbage prefers consistently wet, tomato dislikes wet feet). Keep separate.
-
avoid
Broccoli + Cabbage
Same family, same pests, same diseases. Planting them adjacently amplifies disease and pest pressure. Separate by at least one bed and rotate to non-brassica beds annually.
-
avoid
Potato + Tomato
Both share late blight, early blight, and Colorado potato beetle. Adjacent plantings spread disease rapidly. Rotate to opposite ends of the garden, never plant tomato where potato grew the year before.
-
avoid
Potato + Cucumber
Cucumber crops increase late blight pressure on adjacent potato plantings. Keep at least 30 feet apart and never plant in succession.
Neutral
no documented effect