ZonePlant

Local planting guide · California

Los Angeles, CA

zip 90033

Los Angeles is in USDA hardiness zone 10b, with average winter lows of 35°F to 40°F. The local growing season runs roughly 12/31 through 12/28 (~365 days). This zip falls within the California growing region.

USDA zone
10b 35°F to 40°F
Last spring frost
12/31
First fall frost
12/28
Growing season
365 days
Compatible crops
23
Growing region
California

Right now in Los Angeles

Week 18 priorities

On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →

Gardening in Los Angeles

Los Angeles is effectively frost-free, with winter lows rarely dipping below 35 to 40°F and frost dates so late (December 31) and early (December 28) that frost occurs in fewer than 1% of years. This means the gardening calendar here is inverted relative to most of the United States; the traditional 'spring planting season' faces brutal heat and water stress, while fall through early spring is the optimal growing window for most crops.

The dominant constraint is summer heat and water availability, not cold. Daytime temperatures regularly exceed 85°F from June through September, with peaks often above 95°F. The combination of heat and low humidity puts severe stress on plants that prefer cooler conditions. Tomatoes, peppers, and many greens struggle if planted in late spring and expected to produce through summer. Figs, rosemary, basil, eggplant, and hot peppers thrive here because they love heat and tolerate drought better than other vegetables.

Successful gardening in Los Angeles means treating fall and winter as the main growing seasons. Cool-season crops like lettuce, broccoli, and chard, which would be marginal or impossible in most of zone 10b due to humidity or pest pressure, thrive here from October through May.

Regional context · California

What the California brings to Los Angeles

From cool foggy coast to hot Central Valley to mountain to desert. Mediterranean climate dominates: wet winters, dry summers. The most productive agricultural state in the country, with reach into citrus and olives that exceed the rest of the country.

Full California guide →

Common challenges

Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10b, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.

  • No winter chill
  • Tropical pest and disease pressure
  • Saltwater intrusion in coastal soils

What defeats new gardeners in Los Angeles

The biggest challenge is the inverse calendar. Most gardeners default to spring planting, but April through August is the hardest time to grow anything except heat-loving crops. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant planted in spring often fail to set fruit when temperatures climb above 95°F during the day. Irrigation infrastructure becomes mandatory in summer; water restrictions during drought years can eliminate the garden entirely.

A secondary issue is that the lack of hard freezes means pests and diseases never fully cycle out. Whiteflies, spider mites, and fungal pathogens persist year-round. Powdery mildew, which is cosmetic in cooler climates, becomes a serious problem on squash and cucurbits during the warm, dry season. Careful cultivar selection and sulfur sprays become routine management rather than occasional fixes.

Crops that grow in Los Angeles

23 crops from our catalog match zone 10b, grouped by type.

Tree fruit

12 crops

See all 12 tree fruit for zone 10b →

Berries

2 crops

Nuts

1 crop

Vegetables

6 crops

Herbs

2 crops

Plan the year

Planting calendar for Los Angeles

Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Los Angeles's local frost dates.

Week ? · loading

This week in Los Angeles, CA (zone 10b)

Quiet week in Los Angeles, CA (zone 10b). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.

Nothing critical on the calendar this week.

128 bars · 23 crops

Filter

Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.

Top pests for zone 10b

Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.

Planococcus citri 1455198 (mealybug)
Mealybug 12 crops

Pseudococcidae spp.

Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.

Saissetia oleae (scale-insect)
Scale Insect 10 crops

Coccoidea spp.

Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.

Ceratitis capitata - mosca mediterranea de la fruta (9550667380) (mediterranean-fruit-fly)
Mediterranean Fruit Fly 9 crops

Ceratitis capitata

Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.

Blattlaeuse-JR-T3-I176-2024-09-22 (aphid)
Aphid 8 crops

Multiple species (Aphididae)

Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.

Meloidogyne incognita adult (01) (nematode)
Root-Knot Nematode 7 crops

Meloidogyne species

Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.

HEMI Aleyrodidae Trialeurodes vaporariorum (whitefly)
Whitefly 6 crops

Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)

Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.

Lochmaea (10.3897-zookeys.856.30838) Figure 10 (flea-beetle)
Flea Beetle 5 crops

Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)

Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.

Anastrepha suspensa (caribbean-fruit-fly)
Caribbean Fruit Fly 5 crops

Anastrepha suspensa

Tropical fruit fly endemic to Florida and the Caribbean. Less aggressive on commercial citrus than Mediterranean fruit fly, but devastating on guava, carambola, and other thin-skinned tropicals.

All pests →

Top diseases for zone 10b

Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.

Capnodium sp. 01 (sooty-mold)
Sooty Mold fungal

Capnodium spp.

Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.

Bitter rot (mango-anthracnose)
Mango Anthracnose fungal

Colletotrichum gloeosporioides

Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.

Taro- Southern blight caused by Sclerotium rolfsii (southern-blight)
Southern Blight fungal

Sclerotium rolfsii

Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.

Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. cubense race 1 (24607024387) (fusarium-wilt-tomato)
Fusarium Wilt fungal

Fusarium oxysporum

Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.

Verticillium dahliae (verticillium-wilt)
Verticillium Wilt fungal

Verticillium dahliae

Soil-borne fungal disease similar to fusarium wilt but with broader host range and cooler temperature optimum. Persists in soil for 10+ years.

Summary of the major findings from a multiyear, multi-institutional Diaphorina citri genome assembly project (citrus-greening)
Citrus Greening (HLB) bacterial

Candidatus Liberibacter asiaticus

Devastating bacterial disease vectored by the Asian citrus psyllid. Once infected, trees decline progressively over several years and there is no cure. Has destroyed commercial citrus across Florida and threatens production worldwide.

Bacterial black spot of mango caused by Xanthomonas citri pv. mangiferae indicae (34846737063) (citrus-canker)
Citrus Canker bacterial

Xanthomonas citri

Bacterial disease producing raised corky lesions on leaves, twigs, and fruit. Spread by wind-driven rain and contaminated tools. Quarantine-regulated in many areas.

Bacterial leaf spot of pepper (14954536360) (bacterial-spot-pepper)
Bacterial Spot of Pepper bacterial

Xanthomonas euvesicatoria and X. perforans

Bacterial disease causing leaf spots and fruit blemishes on pepper and tomato. Severe in warm humid weather, transmitted via splashing water and seed.

All diseases →

Companion planting suggestions

Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10b.

All companion pairs →

Soil types reference

Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.

Practical tips for Los Angeles

Plan the main season for fall. Start warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) in late July or August for a September–May harvest window. This avoids the June–August heat stress that causes flowers to drop and fruit to abort. Cool-season crops (lettuce, broccoli, chard, kale) planted in September will produce heavily from November through April.

Succession-plant cool-season crops every 3 to 4 weeks from September through January. Because there is no first frost date to watch, the limiting factor is heat, not cold. Stop plantings by late January to avoid the brief spring window before heat returns.

Treat water as your primary resource. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are not luxuries; they are essential for any garden that will produce through the hot season. Mulch heavily to retain soil moisture and reduce watering frequency. Rosemary, figs, and drought-tolerant herbs can get by with less; everything else will need supplemental water even if rainfall occurs.

Frequently asked questions

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What are the best crops for Los Angeles?

Heat-loving crops (figs, peppers, eggplant, basil, rosemary) and cool-season crops (lettuce, broccoli, chard, kale) are both reliable, but they require different timing. Warm-season crops planted in late summer produce heavily in fall and winter. Cool-season crops thrive October through April. Tomatoes work well when planted in late summer rather than spring.

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When should I plant tomatoes in Los Angeles?

Late July through August is ideal for a September–May harvest. Spring-planted tomatoes (March–April) often fail to set fruit when temperatures exceed 90°F in June and July. Starting seeds or transplants in summer seems counterintuitive but aligns with the local growing season.

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Do I need frost protection?

No. Frost occurs so rarely (once in many decades) that frost cloth and cold frames are unnecessary. Focus instead on shade cloth for summer protection and consistent irrigation.

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What's the biggest challenge in Los Angeles?

Summer heat and water scarcity. Unlike cooler zones where cold is the limiting factor, here the biggest risk is that intense, dry heat kills or stresses crops, and water restrictions may prohibit irrigation. Choosing drought-tolerant varieties and installing efficient irrigation is essential.

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Can I garden year-round?

Yes, but not the same crops year-round. Cool-season crops dominate October–May, while heat-tolerant crops (figs, peppers, eggplant, herbs) handle June–September. The most productive gardens cycle between two seasonal sets rather than maintain continuous beds.

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Why do my peppers drop flowers in June?

Pepper flowers abort when daytime temperatures exceed 90–95°F, especially if plants are water-stressed. Delay planting to late July or August so peak heat coincides with fruit maturation rather than flowering. Consistent irrigation and afternoon shade cloth can help spring-planted peppers survive the heat.

Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00023152. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.

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