Local planting guide · Southeast
zip 32802
Orlando is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/17 through 01/13 (~365 days). This zip falls within the Southeast growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/17
- First fall frost
- 01/13
- Growing season
- 365 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- Southeast
Right now in Orlando
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Orlando
Orlando's year-round frost-free climate is a gardener's paradox. With a 365-day growing season and frost risk limited to a brief window around mid-January, many plants can be grown continuously. Yet the lack of winter dormancy brings a different set of challenges. Persistent warmth and high humidity create ideal conditions for fungal diseases, spider mites, and whiteflies. Crops that thrive here (figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, goji berries, eggplants, and peppers) are those adapted to unrelenting warmth. Tomatoes present a particular quirk: summer heat reduces flowering and fruit set, making fall and winter plantings more productive than spring. The trade-off of year-round gardening in Orlando is constant pest and disease pressure rather than seasonal relief.
Regional context · Southeast
What the Southeast brings to Orlando
Hot, humid, long growing season. Disease-resistant variety selection is the difference between a productive and a failed planting. Strong region for muscadines, blueberries, peaches, persimmons, figs, and warm-season vegetables.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Orlando
Heat stress during summer is the dominant constraint. Tomatoes and peppers, despite being warm-season crops elsewhere, often decline during peak summer in Orlando, with reduced flowering and fruit set. Starting them in late summer for fall and winter production typically yields better results. Fungal diseases exploit the persistent humidity; powdery mildew, downy mildew, and anthracnose can spread rapidly even in well-drained gardens if air circulation is poor. Nematodes in sandy soils are another issue that weakens roots and predisposes plants to wilting. Finally, intense afternoon thunderstorms in July and August can cause sudden flooding in low-lying areas and leaf spotting diseases, though these events are typically brief.
Crops that grow in Orlando
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 crops
Nuts
1 crop
Vegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 crops
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Orlando
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Orlando's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Orlando, FL (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Orlando, FL (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Orlando
Plant tomatoes and peppers as a fall/winter crop (late August through October) rather than spring. They'll produce reliably through the mild winter months when summer heat subsides. Second, space plants wider than standard recommendations to maximize air circulation; 30 percent more spacing than zone-8 guidelines is reasonable in Orlando's humid environment, reducing fungal pressure. Third, succession-plant year-round. Orlando's lack of winter dormancy means a May crop of beans can be pulled and replaced with late-summer peppers, followed by winter tomatoes. Few other regions in the continental US offer this flexibility; use it to maximize productivity across the full calendar.
Frequently asked questions
- What are the best crops to grow in Orlando?
Figs, Asian persimmons, and pomegranates thrive without winter dormancy and tolerate the heat. Eggplant, goji berries, and hot peppers also excel. Tomatoes and sweet peppers work best as fall/winter crops when summer heat subsides. Succession plantings of beans, okra, and leafy greens fill the warm months.
- When should I plant tomatoes in Orlando?
Late August through October for a reliable fall and winter harvest. Spring tomato plantings often decline by June due to intense heat and humidity reducing flowering. True heat-tolerant varieties like cherry types tolerate heat better than slicing types, but even then, fall planting consistently outperforms spring.
- Is frost a real concern in Orlando?
Briefly, around mid-January. Frost risk spans roughly January 13 to January 17, making it a minor planning factor compared to other zones. Most tender perennials (hibiscus, bougainvillea, citrus) survive outdoors year-round. Only plants that cannot tolerate light frost (tender annuals like basil) need protection.
- What causes powdery mildew in my Orlando garden?
High humidity and poor air circulation create perfect conditions year-round. Space plants wider than standard guidelines, prune lower leaves on established plants to allow airflow, and avoid overhead watering in late afternoon. Powdery mildew is manageable with spacing discipline; fungicides are a last resort.
- Can I garden during summer in Orlando?
Yes, but focus on heat-tolerant crops: okra, eggplant, goji berries, southern peas, and amaranth thrive. Heat-sensitive crops (tomatoes, cool-season greens) either decline or must be heavily shaded. Summer thunderstorms are frequent but typically brief; ensure drainage to prevent root rot.
- What soil amendments help in Orlando's sandy soils?
Compost and aged manure improve both water retention and nutrient availability. Local sandy soils often lack organic matter and trace minerals. Incorporate 2 to 3 inches of compost annually and consider a balanced slow-release fertilizer. Nematode-resistant rootstocks are worth seeking for long-term plantings.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00012841. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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