Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85014
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/05 through 01/03 (~365 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/05
- First fall frost
- 01/03
- Growing season
- 365 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix gardening operates on an inverted calendar compared to most of North America. The zone 10a winter is the prime growing window for vegetables; summer (June-August) is dormant or semi-dormant. Frost is rarely limiting, with the last spring frost in early January and minimal early-winter risk, creating a 365-day frost-free window. Instead, intense heat from June through August, when daytime temperatures regularly exceed 110°F, is the dominant constraint. During these months, most vegetables wilt or fail to set fruit regardless of irrigation. The Phoenix gardening year has two distinct phases: winter-spring (October-May) for cool-season crops and heat-tolerant warm-season crops, and a summer dormancy period when most gardens are unproductive. Fig, pomegranate, goji berry, and Asian persimmon thrive because they're adapted to desert heat and drought. Tomatoes and peppers can produce year-round with careful variety selection: heat-adapted cultivars planted in late summer produce through mild winters, while spring plantings finish before extreme heat arrives.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
Heat and timing are the twin challenges. Most home gardeners fail at summer vegetable gardening because they follow conventional nationwide advice and plant in spring, only to watch crops collapse in June when night temperatures soar above 75°F and fruit set fails. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant all struggle in extreme heat. The second challenge is alkaline soil. Phoenix's caliche layer and high pH (often 7.5-8.5) lock up nutrients, particularly iron and zinc, creating chlorotic yellowing even in well-watered plants. Sulfur amendments and raised beds with imported soil are common solutions. Third, the compressed spring window creates tight planting schedules. Cool-season crops (brassicas, root crops, leafy greens) must be established by late February to finish before heat arrives, a narrower window than most US regions.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 crops
Nuts
1 crop
Vegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 crops
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
Plant warm-season crops in late summer (August-September) to harvest through mild winter rather than fighting spring heat. Tomatoes and peppers seeded in July mature by September, flowering and fruiting October through April when temperatures favor fruit set. Second, embrace summer dormancy. Rather than struggling with a failed summer garden, rest beds, amend soil, and focus on early fall vegetable establishment. August-planted tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant thrive through the mild season. Third, use shade cloth for spring plantings if extending into early summer is desired. Thirty to 50 percent shade cloth deployed in May can reduce soil temperature by 10-15°F and allow spring plantings to persist into June, particularly for heat-tolerant crops like Armenian cucumber and yard-long beans.
Frequently asked questions
- What vegetables grow best in Phoenix?
Warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) thrive when planted August-September for winter-spring production. Cool-season crops (lettuce, spinach, brassicas, root crops) grow October-April. Year-round options include Armenian cucumber, yard-long beans, okra, and Swiss chard if soil is amended. Avoid spring plantings of cool-season crops unless shade cloth is used, as they bolt before producing.
- When should I plant tomatoes in Phoenix?
Late August through early September is ideal for winter-spring crops, producing October through April. Alternatively, plant in January-February for a shorter spring crop (harvesting April-May before heat stress). Avoid plantings that would mature in May or June when night temperatures exceed 75°F, preventing fruit set.
- Can I have a productive summer garden from June through August?
Not with conventional vegetables. Heat exceeding 110°F prevents fruit set on tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. Okra and Armenian cucumber can survive with shade. Most gardeners treat June-August as dormant, rest beds, and amend soil for the next cycle.
- What is the biggest weather challenge for Phoenix gardeners?
Summer heat (105-115°F June-August) prevents fruiting on most vegetables. The secondary challenge is alkaline soil (pH 7.5-8.5), which locks up nutrients and causes chlorosis. Raised beds with imported soil and shade structures are common solutions.
- How do I deal with Phoenix's alkaline soil?
Raised beds filled with imported compost-rich soil (target pH 6.5-7.0) are the simplest approach. In-ground beds can be amended with sulfur to lower pH, though results vary. Iron chelate fertilizers help correct chlorosis. Heavy mulching with organic matter improves structure over time.
- Are any crops too challenging to grow in Phoenix?
Most crops are possible with correct timing. Cool-season crops (lettuce, peas, broccoli) must mature before April unless spring-planted with shade cloth. Shade cloth (30-50%) extends spring windows by 2-4 weeks. Perennials like fig and pomegranate thrive year-round without intervention.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00023183. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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