Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85024
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/08 through 12/25 (~354 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/08
- First fall frost
- 12/25
- Growing season
- 354 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix gardening operates on a fundamentally different calendar than most of the United States. The last spring frost arrives January 8 and the first fall frost on December 25, defining a 354-day frost-free window. Yet this raw number obscures the real pattern: Phoenix has two distinct growing seasons, one driven by winter mildness and one by heat tolerance. Cool-season crops thrive October through May, taking full advantage of mild winters with lows averaging 30 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants) must be planted in narrow windows: late August through September for a fall crop before heat peaks, or February through early March for spring before summer exceeds what the plants will tolerate. Crops like Asian persimmons, pomegranates, figs, and goji berries are naturally suited to Phoenix because they evolved for heat and aridity. The zone's true constraint is not frost but rather the intensity of summer sun and heat, which routinely exceeds 110 degrees Fahrenheit from June through August. Winter frosts are rare enough that most gardeners rarely encounter them, yet a freeze is still possible in January.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
The single biggest challenge in Phoenix is managing summer heat. Tomatoes and peppers, despite being warm-season crops, struggle when temperatures exceed 95 degrees Fahrenheit consistently; pollen becomes sterile, blossoms drop, and fruit develops sunscald and blossom-end rot. The solution is not variety selection alone but rather timing: plant early enough to set fruit before the worst heat arrives in June, then plan for a second crop in late August. A second issue is soil. Phoenix's alkaline, caliche-laden soils are low in organic matter and require substantial amendment before they support most crops. The third issue is two-season timing awareness. Many gardeners unfamiliar with low-desert gardening miss the critical September-October window for cool-season crops, planting too late to establish roots before frost or planting too early when heat stress remains. The monsoon rains of July through September bring humidity and disease pressure unusual for the Phoenix climate, including occasional powdery mildew on squash and cucumber.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 cropsNuts
1 cropVegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 cropsPlan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
First, embrace Phoenix's two-season advantage. Cool-season crops (leafy greens, brassicas, root crops, herbs) should anchor the garden from October through April, taking full advantage of the long mild winter. Plant again in late August for a second cool-season harvest before year-end. This approach yields more production than trying to force traditional spring-summer gardening. Second, select heat-adapted crops as your warm-season spine: Asian persimmons, pomegranates, figs, goji berries, and eggplants outperform less heat-tolerant fruit trees and produce reliably in Phoenix's climate. Third, if growing tomatoes or peppers, plant in late February or early March and provide afternoon shade cloth (30 to 50 percent shade) from May through September. This timing allows spring fruit set before heat peaks, and the shade keeps summer fruit from sunscald. Plan a second planting in late August for a fall crop.
Frequently asked questions
- When should I plant tomatoes in Phoenix?
Phoenix supports two tomato seasons. Plant in late February or early March for a spring crop that sets fruit before summer heat peaks. Plan a second planting in late August for a fall crop that matures as temperatures cool in October and November. Both timing windows are essential to avoid blossom drop and sunscald.
- Which crops grow best in Phoenix?
Heat-adapted crops thrive: figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, goji berries, eggplants, and peppers handle Phoenix's intense sun and heat. Cool-season crops (lettuce, kale, broccoli, carrots, herbs) flourish October through May. Avoid frost-sensitive tropical fruits unless you're willing to protect them during the rare January freezes.
- Do I really need frost protection in Phoenix?
Frost is rare but possible in January, when temperatures can dip to 30 to 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Most years it's not an issue. However, tender perennials (citrus, avocado, tender herbs) benefit from frost cloth on hand for January cold snaps. The real growing constraint is summer heat, not frost.
- Why do my tomatoes get sunburned in summer?
Tomato fruit develops sunscald when exposed to intense sun above 95 degrees Fahrenheit, especially during peak heat in June through August. Provide 30 to 50 percent afternoon shade cloth to keep fruit and foliage cooler. Prune aggressively to improve airflow rather than stripping all shade foliage.
- What about Phoenix's soil for gardening?
Phoenix soils are typically alkaline (pH 7.5 to 8.5), low in organic matter, and often contain caliche (calcium carbonate layer). Amend beds heavily with compost and mulch to lower pH, improve water retention, and build organic matter. Raised beds or imported soil may be easier than amending native soil.
- How do I make the most of Phoenix's long growing season?
Think in two seasons: cool-season (October through May) and heat-tolerant crops in narrow spring and fall windows. Plant leafy greens, brassicas, and root crops October through March. Transition to heat-lovers (eggplant, okra, goji) in late February and again in late August. This approach maximizes production across the 354-day frost-free window.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00003184. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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