Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85028
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/06 through 12/26 (~353 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/06
- First fall frost
- 12/26
- Growing season
- 353 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix's defining gardening advantage is an exceptionally long growing season spanning nearly the full year, with a last spring frost date of January 6 and a first fall frost date of December 26. This 353-day frost-free window is remarkable. However, the dominant constraint is not frost but extreme summer heat. Winter becomes the prime growing season in Phoenix, and heat-sensitive cool-season crops (lettuces, brassicas, root crops) thrive from October through April. Heat-loving crops like figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, and goji berries are exceptionally well-suited to the climate and produce reliably. Tomatoes and peppers can grow in Phoenix but require careful variety selection and timing: spring plantings mature before summer heat sterilizes pollen, while fall plantings develop fruit during the cooler months. This inverted seasonal rhythm is unusual compared to most of the United States, where spring and summer dominate the harvest. Year-round gardening is possible with crop rotation that acknowledges this seasonal flip.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
The most significant challenge is extreme summer heat. Tomato pollen fails to set fruit when plants are in the garden during June, July, and August as temperatures spike. Cool-season crops planted at the wrong time bolt or fail to develop heads in the heat. Soil in the Phoenix area tends toward alkalinity and low organic matter, which stresses young plants and requires amendment before planting. Additionally, Arizona's ongoing water restrictions and periodic drought conditions demand efficient irrigation systems to sustain fruit and vegetable production. Timing decisions that work elsewhere in zone 10a may fail here because Phoenix's summer heat intensity is more severe than other parts of the zone.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 cropsNuts
1 cropVegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 cropsPlan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
First, plant tomatoes and peppers for a spring harvest that completes before June heat arrives. Start seeds in late fall (October) for transplants in November and December, so plants flower and set fruit during the mild winter and early spring months. Second, reserve summer for heat-loving crops only: figs, persimmons, pomegranates, and goji berries thrive when other crops fail. Use shade cloth (30 to 50 percent density) over root crops and greens planted in late spring to extend their productive life into early summer. Third, shift the main planting effort to late summer and fall. August and September seedlings of cool-season crops mature through a long, mild autumn and produce through the winter months, making October through April the most abundant growing season in Phoenix rather than spring and summer as in other regions.
Frequently asked questions
- What's the best time to grow tomatoes in Phoenix?
Plant tomato seeds in October or November for winter and spring growth. Seedlings transplanted in late November or December will flower and set fruit from February through May, before summer heat sterilizes pollen. Avoid planting tomatoes in spring for summer harvest; heat stress will prevent fruit development.
- Which crops thrive year-round in Phoenix?
Figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, and goji berries are exceptionally well-suited to Phoenix's climate and produce reliably. These heat-loving crops flourish during the intense summers when cool-season vegetables struggle. Peppers also tolerate the heat well, particularly hot pepper varieties.
- Can I grow cool-season crops in Phoenix?
Yes, but on an inverted schedule. Lettuce, brassicas, root crops, and leafy greens thrive from October through April. Plant seeds or transplants in late summer (August, September) for harvest during the mild autumn and winter. These crops bolt or fail during the long summer heat.
- What's the biggest weather risk for gardening in Phoenix?
Extreme summer heat, not frost. The long growing season with a last frost date of January 6 means frost is almost never a problem. Summer heat that prevents fruit set on tomatoes and other crops is the real challenge for home gardeners.
- When should I start seeds indoors in Phoenix?
Timing depends on the target season. For winter and spring crops, start cool-season seeds indoors in August for transplanting in September and October. For spring tomatoes, start seeds indoors in October. For heat-lovers like peppers and eggplant, start in late winter (February, March) for spring planting.
- Do I need shade cloth in Phoenix?
Shade cloth (30 to 50 percent density) extends the growing life of cool-season crops planted in spring or early summer, allowing them to survive partway into the heat. Heat-loving crops like figs and pomegranates do not need shade. Newly planted seedlings benefit from partial shade in their first two weeks to reduce transplant shock.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00003192. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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