Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85044
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/05 through 01/03 (~365 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/05
- First fall frost
- 01/03
- Growing season
- 365 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix gardening operates on a radically different seasonal rhythm than most of the country. With a last spring frost date of January 5 and a first fall frost date of January 3, the city enjoys a 365-day growing season. However, the dominant constraint is not cold but heat. Summer temperatures routinely exceed 100°F, creating a dual-season garden: cool-season crops thrive from October through May, while heat-loving crops require careful management or a summer break. The crops suited to Phoenix, fig, pomegranate, Asian persimmon, and goji berry among perennials, with tomato, peppers, and eggplant among annuals, reflect this reality. Phoenix's zone 10a classification (average minimum 30 to 35°F) understates the actual challenge. The city's elevation, low humidity, intense solar radiation, and monsoon-influenced summer rains create conditions distinct from other zone 10a areas. Reliable crops tend to be those that either tolerate extreme heat, prefer winter as their growing season, or establish deep roots.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
Phoenix gardeners face three persistent obstacles. First, the summer heat defeats traditional annual crops like tomatoes and lettuce, requiring either shade cloth, irrigation every one to two days, or abandoning them in July and August. Second, monsoon rains (July through September) bring elevated humidity, creating pressure from powdery mildew and fungal leaf spots on heat-tolerant crops like squash and beans. Third, Phoenix's native alkaline soil (pH 8.0 to 8.5) makes acid-loving crops like blueberry chronically chlorotic without heavy sulfur amendments. The rare January freeze, while mild at 30 to 35°F, can damage tender perennials like avocado and young citrus if not protected.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 crops
Nuts
1 crop
Vegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 crops
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
First, plan two distinct growing seasons. Cool-season crops (lettuce, broccoli, root vegetables) are direct-seeded or transplanted in September through November for winter harvest. Heat-loving crops (peppers, eggplant, okra) are started from seed in February through April, mature by June, then typically decline after July. Second, for tomatoes specifically, sow seeds indoors in July or August and transplant in late August or September for a fall and winter crop; skip the traditional spring planting unless early-maturing varieties with 60 to 70 days to harvest are selected. Third, use drip irrigation on a timer for summer crops; hand-watering cannot keep up with Phoenix's evaporation rates. Mulch beds with 3 to 4 inches of wood chips to reduce soil temperature and water loss.
Frequently asked questions
- What are the best crops to grow in Phoenix?
Heat-loving perennials (fig, pomegranate, goji berry, Asian persimmon) and heat-tolerant annuals (peppers, eggplant, okra, melon) thrive in Phoenix summers. Cool-season crops (tomatoes via fall planting, broccoli, lettuce, root vegetables) are grown October through May. Herbs like rosemary and oregano tolerate both seasons.
- When do you plant tomatoes in Phoenix?
Sow seeds indoors in July or early August, then transplant to the garden in late August or September for a fall and winter harvest. This avoids the brutal summer heat. Spring planting is not recommended unless very early-maturing varieties are used to reach maturity by June.
- What is the frost risk in Phoenix?
Phoenix's frost season is extremely short. The last spring frost date is around January 5 and the first fall frost date is around January 3, meaning most of the year is frost-free. Still, winter lows of 30 to 35°F do occur, so frost cloth on tender perennials in November and December provides insurance.
- How do you keep plants alive in Phoenix's summer heat?
Drip irrigation on a timer is essential; most plants need daily or every-other-day watering during June through August. Shade cloth (30 to 50%) protects peppers, eggplant, and tender herbs from sunscald and heat stress. Mulch beds heavily with wood chips to reduce soil temperature and water loss.
- Can you garden year-round in Phoenix?
Yes, but in two phases. October through May is the peak growing season for cool-season crops and mild-weather work. June through September is reserved for heat-loving perennials and shade-protected annuals. Many gardeners significantly reduce activity in July and August.
- What's the biggest challenge in Phoenix gardening?
The extreme summer heat defeats most traditional annual vegetables, forcing a reversed growing calendar. Instead of spring planting, Phoenix gardeners plant in late summer and fall. Intense solar radiation and low humidity also demand constant attention to irrigation and mulching to retain soil moisture.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00023183. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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