Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85067
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/05 through 01/03 (~365 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/05
- First fall frost
- 01/03
- Growing season
- 365 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix's gardening calendar runs counter to most of North America. With a year-round growing season and essentially no frost risk (frost dates cluster near early January), the real constraint is not cold but extreme summer heat and aridity. From June through September, sustained temperatures of 110°F to 120°F place severe stress on most crops. This reality inverts the typical planting calendar: winter and early spring (October through March) become the prime growing season, when temperatures are mild and water demand is lowest. Many crops commonly grown in cooler zones thrive during Phoenix's cool months but fail catastrophically if planted in spring for summer harvest. Figs, pomegranates, goji berries, and Asian persimmons flourish in Phoenix's intense sun. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and tender vegetables produce best when started in late summer for fall and winter harvest, not spring. Understanding this inverted rhythm (winter as the active season, summer as dormancy) is key to consistent production.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
The most common mistake is planting on a standard spring-to-fall schedule. Tomatoes and peppers started in March will flower and fruit-set poorly once June heat arrives; starting them in August for winter harvest aligns with the actual growing season. Second, water scarcity and potential irrigation restrictions during peak summer make consistent moisture nearly impossible to maintain. Many varieties suited to humid regions also struggle with Phoenix's low humidity and intense sun, suffering sunburn on fruit and necrosis on foliage. Third, the inverted seasons catch newcomers off guard: a crop in decline by May is not failing because of cold approaching, but because summer is arriving and most plants cannot thrive under sustained 110°F+ conditions.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 cropsNuts
1 cropVegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 cropsPlan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
The gardening year begins in autumn. Plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and leafy greens in late August through October so they mature during the mild, long-day winter and spring months (December through April). For any crops that must grow during summer, use 30-50% shade cloth (June-August) and select heat-tolerant varieties such as Armenian cucumber, yard-long beans, and desert-adapted pepper cultivars. Drip irrigation and 3-4 inches of mulch conserve water effectively; the difference between hand-watering and automated drip often determines whether plants thrive or merely survive during the dry season.
Frequently asked questions
- What are the best crops to grow in Phoenix?
Figs, pomegranates, goji berries, and Asian persimmons thrive in Phoenix's intense heat and long season. Tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant, and hot peppers produce reliably when planted in late summer for winter harvest. Cool-season crops like lettuce, kale, broccoli, and root vegetables excel during winter months (November-March).
- When should tomatoes be planted in Phoenix?
Plant tomato seeds or transplants in late August through September, not spring. This timing allows plants to establish before winter and produce fruit during the mild December-April window. Spring plantings flower poorly once June heat arrives and yield little fruit.
- How can gardeners protect crops from extreme summer heat?
Use 30-50% shade cloth (June-August) for heat-sensitive crops, choose heat-tolerant varieties, and irrigate consistently early in the morning. Many gardeners accept summer as a low-production season and concentrate effort on winter and spring, which are more forgiving.
- Is frost a serious concern in Phoenix?
Frost risk is minimal to nonexistent. The real threat is extreme summer heat (110°F+). Gardeners in Phoenix face the opposite problem of most regions: protecting crops from heat, not from cold.
- What watering strategy works best in Phoenix's dry climate?
Drip irrigation is essential; hand-watering cannot meet the needs of productive gardening in low-humidity conditions. Water deeply in early morning and apply 3-4 inches of mulch to retain moisture and moderate soil temperature.
- Can cool-season vegetables grow in Phoenix?
Yes, exclusively October through April. Plant lettuce, kale, spinach, broccoli, and root crops in fall and harvest before late spring heat. These crops fail if planted in spring for summer harvest due to heat-induced bolting and stress.
+−
+−
+−
+−
+−
+−
Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00023183. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
Related