Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85068
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/05 through 01/03 (~365 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/05
- First fall frost
- 01/03
- Growing season
- 365 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix's gardening season is inverted. Where most US gardeners fear spring and fall frosts, Phoenix's frost risk clusters in early January, with nearly 365 frost-free days afterward. The real constraint is summer heat. From June through August, temperatures routinely exceed 105°F, and exposed soil can exceed 150°F, making summer vegetable production nearly impossible without significant shade and heat-tolerant varieties.
Winter is the garden's sweet spot. October through March offers mild temperatures, lower humidity (relative to coastal regions), and reliable sunlight. Tender perennials like figs, pomegranates, and Asian persimmons thrive, while cool-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, and leafy greens flourish when planted in late summer or fall. This timing is counterintuitive for gardeners from other regions. A January frost can still damage tender growth, but the brief cold snap is predictable and manageable with basic frost cloth.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
Summer heat is the defining challenge in Phoenix. Most common vegetables and fruit crops simply cannot photosynthesize or set fruit when daytime temperatures exceed 110°F. Tomato pollen becomes sterile above 90°F nighttime temperature, preventing fruit set even if the plant survives the heat. Peppers tolerate higher heat better, but still struggle when nighttime temperatures exceed 75°F sustained. Irrigation demand spikes dramatically during this window; water restrictions in some Phoenix neighborhoods further limit options.
A secondary issue is the January frost window (roughly Jan 1 to Jan 10). Tender perennials that were thriving through December can be damaged by the brief cold snap if they've begun new tender growth. Asian persimmons, figs, and pomegranates commonly experience dieback or flower bud loss in poor-timing years. Finally, Phoenix soils are often alkaline (pH 7.5 to 8.5), limiting iron and manganese availability for acid-loving plants.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 crops
Nuts
1 crop
Vegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 crops
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
Plant tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant in late August or early September, not in spring. This timing allows the crop to mature and produce through the mild fall and early winter before summer heat arrives. A September-planted tomato will produce consistently from November through May, a complete inversion of traditional calendar gardening.
Use 30 to 50 percent shade cloth (30 percent for greens, 50 percent for sensitive crops) from May through September. Shade cloth can drop temperature 8 to 15°F and cuts water demand significantly. Install it on the south and west sides of beds, or over entire raised beds.
Monitor the early January frost forecast closely. While Jan 3 to Jan 5 is the historical frost date, brief cold snaps can arrive as late as early February in poor years. Keep frost cloth and burlap on hand for tender perennials that break dormancy early.
Frequently asked questions
- When should I plant tomatoes in Phoenix?
Late August or early September for a fall and winter crop. Tomato seedlings started indoors in early August are ready to transplant by late August. They'll produce continuously from November through May, before summer heat kills the plant. Spring planting produces weak yields because fruit set fails once daytime temperatures consistently exceed 95°F in May.
- What crops grow well year-round in Phoenix?
Leafy greens, brassicas, and root crops thrive October through March. Peppers are more heat-tolerant than tomatoes and produce longer into summer if planted in early September. Figs, pomegranates, Asian persimmons, and goji berries are the reliable perennial fruits; all are productive in zone 10a if protected from January frost.
- How do I handle the summer heat?
Shade cloth is essential. A 30 to 50 percent shade cloth (depending on crop and sun exposure) reduces air temperature 8 to 15°F and cuts water demand by 30 to 50 percent. Mulch heavily to keep soil cooler and retain moisture. Consider shade-adapted crops like leafy greens under taller perennials during summer.
- When is the last frost date in Phoenix?
The historical last spring frost is January 5, based on NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020. However, the timing is misleading; the frost risk is actually in early winter (January), not spring. After January, frost is extremely rare. Tender perennials should be protected going into January, not late spring.
- Can I grow tropical fruits in Phoenix?
Some, with care. Avocados, citrus, and mangoes can survive winter lows of 30 to 35°F for brief periods but are at risk during January frost events. Hardier options like pomegranate, Asian persimmon, goji berry, and fig are better suited to the climate without frost protection.
- What about water restrictions in Phoenix?
Check your local municipality for irrigation restrictions; many Phoenix neighborhoods limit watering days or require efficiency standards. Drip irrigation and mulch are essential to maximize water use efficiency. Shade cloth and grouping plants by water needs also reduce overall demand.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00023183. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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