Local planting guide · California
zip 90065
Los Angeles is in USDA hardiness zone 10a, with average winter lows of 30°F to 35°F. The local growing season runs roughly 12/31 through 12/28 (~365 days). This zip falls within the California growing region.
- USDA zone
- 10a 30°F to 35°F
- Last spring frost
- 12/31
- First fall frost
- 12/28
- Growing season
- 365 days
- Compatible crops
- 28
- Growing region
- California
Right now in Los Angeles
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Los Angeles
Los Angeles gardening operates under fundamentally different constraints than most of zone 10a. With virtually no frost risk; the coldest average temperatures hit 30-35°F but hard freezes almost never occur; the limiting factor shifts entirely to summer heat and water availability. The growing season spans the full calendar year, but success depends more on heat tolerance and drought management than frost-hardiness.
This climate enables reliable cultivation of crops typically restricted to warmer regions: figs thrive in LA's long, hot summers, while Asian persimmons, pomegranates, and goji berries reach full expression here. Tomatoes, peppers (both sweet and hot), and eggplant produce abundantly, though the heat peaks test variety selection. The challenge for most gardeners is not keeping plants alive through winter but managing them through the intense summer months.
Los Angeles differs from other zone 10a areas in two critical ways. Coastal regions stay cooler year-round, while inland areas (including most of 90065) experience brutal summer peaks often exceeding 95-105°F. Water availability varies dramatically by neighborhood and season. Spring through early summer offers reliable growing conditions; late July through September requires substantial irrigation infrastructure and variety selection weighted toward heat tolerance.
Most gardening calendars assume either a winter chill (temperate zones) or monsoonal water cycles (subtropical). Los Angeles requires a third approach: year-round planting but careful attention to variety selection and water strategy for each season.
Regional context · California
What the California brings to Los Angeles
From cool foggy coast to hot Central Valley to mountain to desert. Mediterranean climate dominates: wet winters, dry summers. The most productive agricultural state in the country, with reach into citrus and olives that exceed the rest of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 10a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ No chilling for traditional temperate fruit
- ▸ Hurricane exposure
- ▸ Heat-tolerant cultivars only
What defeats new gardeners in Los Angeles
Three interconnected challenges define Los Angeles gardening. First, summer heat stress: temperatures regularly exceed 95°F from July through September, causing blossom drop in peppers and tomatoes, bolting in leafy greens, and heat-induced wilting even in well-watered gardens. Variety selection is critical; standard East Coast tomato and pepper varieties often fail without aggressive shade.
Second, water scarcity and irrigation limitations. Most LA neighborhoods face summer water restrictions during peak heat, precisely when gardens demand maximum irrigation. Many properties have limited water access, old irrigation systems, or poor soil water-holding capacity, forcing choices between established plantings and summer crop production.
Third, specific pest pressures thrive in year-round warmth. Whiteflies, spider mites, and scale insects persist through winter, building massive populations by summer. Many pesticides fail in extreme heat. Disease pressure from fungal pathogens increases during any humid spell or careless overhead watering.
Crops that grow in Los Angeles
28 crops from our catalog match zone 10a, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
12 crops
zone 10a Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 10a Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 10a Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 10a Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 10a Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
zone 10a Avocado
Persea americana
zones 9b–11b
Berries
3 cropsNuts
1 cropVegetables
10 crops
zone 10a Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 10a Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 10a Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 10a Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Summer Squash
Cucurbita pepo
zones 3b–10a
zone 10a Melon
Cucumis melo
zones 5a–10a
zone 10a Watermelon
Citrullus lanatus
zones 5b–10a
Herbs
2 cropsPlan the year
Planting calendar for Los Angeles
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Los Angeles's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Los Angeles, CA (zone 10a)
Quiet week in Los Angeles, CA (zone 10a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
147 bars · 28 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Ceratitis capitata
Quarantine pest in many regions. Adult females puncture ripening fruit to lay eggs; larvae tunnel through the flesh, causing premature drop and rot.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Top diseases for zone 10a
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Colletotrichum gloeosporioides
Most damaging mango disease worldwide. Fungal spores infect blossoms and developing fruit during humid weather, producing black sunken lesions that expand on ripening fruit.
Multiple species (Erysiphales)
Surface-feeding fungal disease producing white powdery growth on leaves and stems. Reduces yield by stealing photosynthate and accelerating senescence.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 10a.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Okra + Hot Pepper
Both heat-loving warm-season crops with similar water and fertility needs. Hot pepper at okra's base benefits from the slight afternoon shade in extreme summer heat.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Los Angeles
Three strategies address Los Angeles-specific constraints. First, select heat-tolerant and drought-adapted varieties by default. For tomatoes, choose cherry and paste types; avoid large beefsteaks without significant shade. For peppers, Thai and Serrano varieties outperform blocky bell peppers. Asian persimmons, figs, and pomegranates require no irrigation once established and reward LA gardeners with abundance that frustrates growers elsewhere.
Second, deploy shade strategically. A 30–40% shade cloth (or strategic tree placement) over tomatoes and peppers from June through August maintains fruit quality and reduces irrigation demand. Many gardeners mistakenly believe full sun is mandatory; in LA, afternoon shade becomes essential by midsummer.
Third, synchronize planting to water availability and heat cycles, not frost dates. Spring (February–April) and fall (September–November) offer ideal growing conditions; summer crops require drought tolerance or reliable irrigation. Winter (December–January) is mild enough for cool-season crops if water is available. A year-round garden in Los Angeles is possible only with a fragmented planting calendar aligned to seasonal water and heat constraints.
Frequently asked questions
- What's the easiest crop to grow in Los Angeles?
Figs rank first; they're nearly impossible to kill once established, thrive on neglect, and produce reliably. Asian persimmons and pomegranates follow. Tomatoes succeed with variety selection (cherry and paste types outperform large slicers without shade) and water management. Peppers produce abundantly but require consistent watering.
- When should I plant tomatoes in Los Angeles?
February and March offer ideal conditions for spring crops. Start seeds indoors in January for transplants by early March. A second planting in July or August catches the fall and winter mild season, though summer heat makes mid-May through June challenging. Year-round tomato cultivation requires staggered plantings timed to temperature cycles, not frost risk.
- What's the biggest weather risk in Los Angeles gardening?
Summer heat stress, not frost. Temperatures above 95°F cause blossom drop in tomatoes and peppers, rapid bolting in greens, and wilting in shallow-rooted crops. This peaks July–September. Secondary risk: water scarcity during the same months. Winter frost is negligible.
- Can I grow cool-season crops year-round in Los Angeles?
Technically yes, but with limitations. December through March, cool-season crops (lettuce, brassicas, peas) thrive in unshaded soil. By April, daytime heat and long days trigger bolting. May through October is impractical without shade and consistent irrigation. Most gardeners shift to heat-adapted crops May–September.
- Do I need to protect my garden from frost?
Frost protection is unnecessary in 90065. Hard freezes occur fewer than once per decade in most years. Water damage and heat stress pose far greater risks to established plantings.
- Which citrus grows well in Los Angeles?
All major citrus types thrive. Lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruits, and pomelos grow reliably with minimal pest pressure compared to other regions. Container growing is popular for space-constrained properties. Frost risk is negligible; the constraint is water and soil pH (adjust for alkaline soils common in LA).
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00023152. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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