ZonePlant

Local planting guide · Southeast

Jacksonville, FL

zip 32255

Jacksonville is in USDA hardiness zone 9b, with average winter lows of 25°F to 30°F. The local growing season runs roughly 02/01 through 01/05 (~330 days). This zip falls within the Southeast growing region.

USDA zone
9b 25°F to 30°F
Last spring frost
02/01
First fall frost
01/05
Growing season
330 days
Compatible crops
37
Growing region
Southeast

Right now in Jacksonville

Week 18 priorities

On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →

Gardening in Jacksonville

Jacksonville's location at the northern edge of subtropical Florida creates a unique gardening context. The growing season stretches 330 days, from early February through early January, making it one of the longest in the continental US. However, the last spring frost arrives as late as February 1, which is much later than most zone 9b locations further inland or south. This late frost is the defining constraint: winter's grip lingers into early spring despite the overall warmth of the zone.

The cold half of the year is mild. Winter temperatures rarely drop below 25°F, which means many borderline-hardy crops can establish roots over winter. Figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, and jujubes thrive with minimal winter protection. Summer heat and humidity dominate the growing season from June onward. Afternoon temperatures regularly exceed 90°F with dew points in the 70s, creating ideal conditions for fungal diseases and heat stress.

The Jacksonville climate rewards late-winter and early-spring plantings for spring and summer harvest, then a second wave in late summer for fall and winter crops. The January 5 average first frost date is mild enough that many perennials can survive outdoors year-round. The real bottleneck is that frost-sensitive annuals and tender vegetables cannot safely go in the ground until after that February 1 frost date passes.

Regional context · Southeast

What the Southeast brings to Jacksonville

Hot, humid, long growing season. Disease-resistant variety selection is the difference between a productive and a failed planting. Strong region for muscadines, blueberries, peaches, persimmons, figs, and warm-season vegetables.

Full Southeast guide →

Common challenges

Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 9b, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.

  • Heat stress in summer
  • Insufficient chill for most apples
  • Salt spray near coasts

What defeats new gardeners in Jacksonville

The late February 1 frost date deceives many new gardeners into planting too early. Warm spells in January and early February trigger blooming or early growth, which frost then kills. Stone fruits like peaches and apricots are especially vulnerable because their buds break easily; a hard freeze in late February or early March can eliminate the harvest before it starts.

High humidity and summer heat create persistent fungal pressure. Powdery mildew, downy mildew, and leaf spots thrive in the wet heat from June through August. Tomatoes, peppers, and squash often struggle in midsummer not from cold but from heat stress and disease. Succession plantings in July and August for fall harvest often fail if planted too early; starting seeds in July for transplanting in late August works better than trying to nurse summer transplants through peak heat.

Well-drained soil is critical in a climate with frequent afternoon thunderstorms and potential high water table concerns.

Crops that grow in Jacksonville

37 crops from our catalog match zone 9b, grouped by type.

Tree fruit

11 crops

See all 11 tree fruit for zone 9b →

Berries

2 crops

Vegetables

18 crops

See all 18 vegetables for zone 9b →

Herbs

6 crops

Plan the year

Planting calendar for Jacksonville

Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Jacksonville's local frost dates.

Week ? · loading

This week in Jacksonville, FL (zone 9b)

Quiet week in Jacksonville, FL (zone 9b). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.

Nothing critical on the calendar this week.

187 bars · 37 crops

Filter

Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.

Top pests for zone 9b

Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.

Blattlaeuse-JR-T3-I176-2024-09-22 (aphid)
Aphid 18 crops

Multiple species (Aphididae)

Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.

HEMI Aleyrodidae Trialeurodes vaporariorum (whitefly)
Whitefly 10 crops

Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)

Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.

Meloidogyne incognita adult (01) (nematode)
Root-Knot Nematode 9 crops

Meloidogyne species

Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.

Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika (2) (two-spotted-spider-mite)
Two-Spotted Spider Mite 8 crops

Tetranychus urticae

Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.

Lochmaea (10.3897-zookeys.856.30838) Figure 10 (flea-beetle)
Flea Beetle 8 crops

Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)

Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.

Mule Deer (Odocoileus hemionus) sniff (deer-damage)
Deer Browse 7 crops

Odocoileus species

Whitetail and mule deer browse can devastate orchards and gardens, particularly in winter when food is scarce. Antler rub on young trunks kills saplings outright.

Planococcus citri 1455198 (mealybug)
Mealybug 7 crops

Pseudococcidae spp.

Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.

Saissetia oleae (scale-insect)
Scale Insect 6 crops

Coccoidea spp.

Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.

All pests →

Top diseases for zone 9b

Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.

Downy mildew on leaves of Cucumis sativus (downy-mildew-cucurbit)
Downy Mildew fungal

Pseudoperonospora cubensis (cucurbits) and others

Water mold (oomycete, not a true fungus) that thrives in cool damp conditions. Spreads rapidly through cucurbit and brassica plantings on wind-borne spores.

Tobacco mosaic virus symptoms tobacco (mosaic-virus)
Mosaic Virus viral

Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others

Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.

Seedlings - Flickr - peganum (3) (damping-off)
Damping Off fungal

Pythium and Rhizoctonia species

Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.

Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. cubense race 1 (24607024387) (fusarium-wilt-tomato)
Fusarium Wilt fungal

Fusarium oxysporum

Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.

Taro- Southern blight caused by Sclerotium rolfsii (southern-blight)
Southern Blight fungal

Sclerotium rolfsii

Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.

Blossom end rot tomato 2017 A (blossom-end-rot)
Blossom End Rot physiological

Calcium deficiency physiological disorder

Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.

Capnodium sp. 01 (sooty-mold)
Sooty Mold fungal

Capnodium spp.

Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.

Stevia rebaudiana TSWV symptoms 3 (tomato-spotted-wilt)
Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus viral

Tomato spotted wilt orthotospovirus (TSWV)

Virus vectored by thrips, particularly western flower thrips. Wide host range and growing global distribution. No cure once infected.

All diseases →

Companion planting suggestions

Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 9b.

All companion pairs →

Soil types reference

Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.

Practical tips for Jacksonville

Wait until mid-February for tender crops. Despite warm January days, tender crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, tender herbs) should not be transplanted before February 1 passes. A late hard frost can wipe out early plantings. Direct sowing of warm-season crops also benefits from waiting; soil temperature, not air temperature, drives germination and establishment.

Capitalize on the spring window. February 1 through May 1 is peak planting season for Jacksonville. Most crops planted in February establish strong root systems before summer stress arrives. Filling beds with plantings by late May maximizes the spring advantage and provides established plants heading into the heat.

Prioritize heat and humidity-tolerant varieties. Southern-adapted tomato cultivars and humidity-resistant pepper varieties perform better than sensitive types. 'Sungold' and 'Florida VF' are reliable tomatoes; 'San Marzano' is susceptible to disease. For figs, 'Celeste' and 'Brown Turkey' outperform tender European selections. Asian persimmons ('Fuyu', 'Jiro') handle the humid subtropics better than American natives.

Frequently asked questions

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When can I plant tomatoes in Jacksonville?

Tomatoes can be safely transplanted after the last frost date of February 1. Starting seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks earlier (mid-December) gives them time to establish before spring heat arrives. A second planting in late July (seeds) for fall harvest works well since transplants mature in the cooler October-November window.

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Which crops grow best in Jacksonville?

Figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, and jujubes are reliable perennials. For vegetables, tomatoes (heat-tolerant varieties like 'Sungold'), peppers, sweet corn, okra, and beans thrive. Many cool-season crops (lettuce, broccoli, spinach) grow through winter and are ready by spring, extending the productive season.

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What's the biggest weather threat to crops in Jacksonville?

The late February 1 spring frost catches early bloomers and tender transplants unprepared. Stone fruits like peaches are especially at risk from hard freezes in late February after unseasonably warm January weather triggers bud break. Summer heat and humidity from June onward also fuel fungal disease pressure that can devastate tomatoes and squash.

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Can I grow tropical fruit trees in Jacksonville?

Marginal tropical species like mango and avocado can survive mild winters but fruit production is unpredictable because the spring frost often damages or kills flowers. Subtropical fruits adapted to zone 9b, such as figs, persimmons, pomegranates, and jujubes, are much more reliable and produce consistently.

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What about the January 5 frost date I see listed?

The January 5 average first frost date is quite late for a frost date; it simply means hard freezes are rare in Jacksonville after early January. This allows perennials and some tender shrubs to survive and thrive outdoors year-round. The real constraint is the spring frost on February 1, not the winter frost.

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How should I handle the summer heat?

Many spring-planted crops decline by July. Plan for a summer lull or shift to heat-loving crops like okra and Southern peas. For tomatoes and peppers, provide afternoon shade cloth (30-50%) and consistent irrigation. Start fall-crop seeds in late July indoors so transplants are ready for the lower-stress October-November window.

Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00093837. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.

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