Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85023
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 9b, with average winter lows of 25°F to 30°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/08 through 12/25 (~354 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 9b 25°F to 30°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/08
- First fall frost
- 12/25
- Growing season
- 354 days
- Compatible crops
- 37
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix's gardening calendar is inverted compared to most of the continent. The last spring frost arrives January 8, the first fall frost not until December 25, yielding a 354-day growing season per NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020. The dominant constraint is not cold but summer heat; the sample crops are chosen precisely because they tolerate sustained high temperatures. Winter dormancy is brief, allowing multiple planting windows within a single year. Phoenix's water availability is limited, making irrigation non-negotiable. Figs, pomegranates, jujubes, and Asian persimmons thrive here because they tolerate both heat and the region's drying conditions. Tomatoes and peppers require heat-tolerant varieties and careful timing to avoid fruit drop during peak heat. The early January frost date is deceptive: tender perennials planted in December often suffer freeze damage, so new plantings should wait until mid-January at the earliest. The true challenge is managing summer heat, not winter cold. Phoenix gardeners must plan as much for heat avoidance (shade, irrigation, variety selection) as for frost protection.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 9b, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ Heat stress in summer
- ▸ Insufficient chill for most apples
- ▸ Salt spray near coasts
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
Summer heat is the defining obstacle for Phoenix gardeners. The sample crops are all chosen for heat tolerance: figs, pomegranates, and jujubes naturally thrive in sustained high temperatures, while tomatoes and peppers require heat-tolerant varieties to set fruit reliably during hot months. Water availability is the second major constraint; Phoenix receives minimal rainfall, and summer irrigation demand is intense and unforgiving. The early January frost date (January 8) is deceptively early; tender perennials planted in late December often suffer freeze damage, requiring growers to delay new plantings until mid-January. The region's hot, dry climate also creates favorable conditions for pests and diseases adapted to heat and low moisture; checking with local extension resources for current IPM recommendations is wise.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
37 crops from our catalog match zone 9b, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
11 crops
zone 9b Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 9b Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 9b Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 9b Jujube
Ziziphus jujuba
zones 6a–9b
zone 9b Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 9b Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 9b Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 9b Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
Berries
2 crops
Vegetables
18 crops
zone 9b Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 9b Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 9b Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 9b Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 9b Cabbage
Brassica oleracea var. capitata
zones 3a–9b
zone 9b Kale
Brassica oleracea var. acephala
zones 3a–9b
zone 9b Collards
Brassica oleracea var. acephala
zones 4a–9b
zone 9b Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
Herbs
6 crops
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
187 bars · 37 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 9b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Odocoileus species
Whitetail and mule deer browse can devastate orchards and gardens, particularly in winter when food is scarce. Antler rub on young trunks kills saplings outright.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Top diseases for zone 9b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Pseudoperonospora cubensis (cucurbits) and others
Water mold (oomycete, not a true fungus) that thrives in cool damp conditions. Spreads rapidly through cucurbit and brassica plantings on wind-borne spores.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Tomato spotted wilt orthotospovirus (TSWV)
Virus vectored by thrips, particularly western flower thrips. Wide host range and growing global distribution. No cure once infected.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 9b.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Lettuce + Tomato
Lettuce planted at tomato's base benefits from afternoon shade as the tomato grows, extending the lettuce harvest into early summer. Different root depths avoid competition.
- Cabbage + Onion
Onion smell confuses cabbage moth. Both prefer similar moisture and fertility. The onion-cabbage interplanting is a Northern European tradition.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
Heat-adapted varieties are essential. Figs, pomegranates, jujubes, and Asian persimmons are nearly foolproof for Phoenix. For tomatoes and peppers, heat-tolerant cultivars bred for hot climates are more reliable; testing new varieties in shade first reduces risk. Afternoon shade from June through August is critical. A 30-50% shade cloth protects fruit from sunscald and leaf bleach. Many Phoenix growers position heat-sensitive crops on the east or north side of buildings or taller shrubs for natural shade. Drip irrigation and heavy mulch (three to four inches of wood chips) around tree bases are standard. Drip systems target water to the root zone and minimize waste; mulch moderates soil temperature and conserves moisture. Early morning irrigation cools foliage and reduces pest populations.
Frequently asked questions
- What are the most reliable crops for Phoenix?
Figs, pomegranates, jujubes, and Asian persimmons tolerate both heat and low moisture. Tomatoes and peppers thrive with heat-tolerant varieties and afternoon shade. Citrus (oranges, lemons, grapefruits) is reliable once established. These match the sample crops because they're proven for the climate.
- When should I plant tomatoes?
Wait until mid-January after the January 8 frost date passes, then plant through February for spring harvest. For a fall crop, plant heat-tolerant varieties in late July or early August and harvest in October and November, avoiding peak summer stress.
- What's the biggest weather risk?
Summer heat, not frost. The long growing season brings sustained high temperatures that cause fruit drop in peppers and tomatoes and rapidly deplete soil moisture. Frost protection is minimal; heat management is the critical skill.
- How do I manage water in Phoenix?
Drip irrigation is essential, not optional. Lines placed directly at the root zone minimize waste. Mulch heavily (three to four inches) to conserve moisture and moderate soil temperature. Early morning watering is best, as demand is lower and foliage gets cooled.
- Can I garden year-round?
Yes. Plant frost-sensitive crops (tomatoes, peppers, annuals) in fall (September through November) for winter and spring harvest. Plant cold-hardy crops (root vegetables, leafy greens, brassicas) in late fall and winter, harvesting before summer heat arrives.
- What about the January frost?
The January 8 last spring frost date is early, but it does arrive. Tender perennials planted in December often suffer freeze damage. Wait until mid-January to establish new plantings, avoiding the risk of a late frost catch.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00003184. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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