Local planting guide · Southwest
zip 85076
Phoenix is in USDA hardiness zone 9b, with average winter lows of 25°F to 30°F. The local growing season runs roughly 01/05 through 01/03 (~365 days). This zip falls within the Southwest growing region.
- USDA zone
- 9b 25°F to 30°F
- Last spring frost
- 01/05
- First fall frost
- 01/03
- Growing season
- 365 days
- Compatible crops
- 37
- Growing region
- Southwest
Right now in Phoenix
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Phoenix
Phoenix lies in USDA zone 9b, where winter minimums rarely drop below 25 to 30°F. The 365-day growing season is the defining feature. Frost is almost never a limiting factor in practice; summer heat is. Temperatures exceed 115°F from June through August, which kills or severely stresses most crops. Heat-loving fruits like figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, jujubes, and goji berries thrive on the intense sun. Tomatoes and peppers are extremely productive in the spring and fall windows, but the summer heat requires intentional crop timing, shade cloth, and heat-tolerant varieties to avoid fruit-set shutdown. Hardy herbs like rosemary, sage, and lavender produce year-round. The key to Phoenix success is structuring the year to avoid peak-heat months for sensitive crops while maximizing growth in spring and fall, and planting heat-lovers that produce during June through August. This approach differs sharply from frost-driven planning in colder zones.
Regional context · Southwest
What the Southwest brings to Phoenix
Hot, arid, irrigated. Two growing seasons in the low desert: cool October to April, hot May to September. Date palms and citrus thrive at low elevation; apples and stone fruit at higher elevations. The chile-pepper belt of the country.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 9b, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ Heat stress in summer
- ▸ Insufficient chill for most apples
- ▸ Salt spray near coasts
What defeats new gardeners in Phoenix
Phoenix gardeners face three persistent obstacles. First, summer heat peak (June through August) exceeds what most heat-tolerant varieties can handle. Tomatoes stop setting fruit above 95°F nighttime temperatures; peppers wilt under sustained 120°F+ days without consistent irrigation. Second, water availability and cost. Phoenix is desert; supplemental irrigation is non-negotiable, and local water restrictions vary by neighborhood and season. Third, the near-frost-free winters mean tender pests and diseases rarely die off from cold. Scale insects, spider mites, and powdery mildew overwinter easily, requiring more vigilant management than regions where winter cold culls populations.
Crops that grow in Phoenix
37 crops from our catalog match zone 9b, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
11 crops
zone 9b Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
zone 9b Asian Persimmon
Diospyros kaki
zones 7a–10a
zone 9b Pomegranate
Punica granatum
zones 7b–10a
zone 9b Jujube
Ziziphus jujuba
zones 6a–9b
zone 9b Lemon
Citrus limon
zones 9a–11b
zone 9b Orange
Citrus sinensis
zones 9a–11b
zone 9b Lime
Citrus aurantiifolia
zones 9b–11b
zone 9b Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi
zones 9a–11b
Berries
2 crops
Vegetables
18 crops
zone 9b Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 9b Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 9b Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 9b Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 9b Cabbage
Brassica oleracea var. capitata
zones 3a–9b
zone 9b Kale
Brassica oleracea var. acephala
zones 3a–9b
zone 9b Collards
Brassica oleracea var. acephala
zones 4a–9b
zone 9b Cucumber
Cucumis sativus
zones 3b–10a
Herbs
6 crops
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Phoenix
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Phoenix's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b)
Quiet week in Phoenix, AZ (zone 9b). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
187 bars · 37 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 9b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Multiple species (Aleyrodidae)
Tiny white moth-like flying insects that feed on plant sap and excrete honeydew. Transmit numerous viral diseases including tomato yellow leaf curl virus.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Odocoileus species
Whitetail and mule deer browse can devastate orchards and gardens, particularly in winter when food is scarce. Antler rub on young trunks kills saplings outright.
Pseudococcidae spp.
Soft white waxy insects that cluster at leaf joints, fruit stems, and root crowns. Honeydew secretion supports sooty mold; root mealybugs cause decline that mimics drought.
Coccoidea spp.
Sap-sucking insects that attach to bark, leaves, and fruit, secreting honeydew that fuels sooty mold. Heavy infestations weaken trees and cause leaf yellowing.
Top diseases for zone 9b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Pseudoperonospora cubensis (cucurbits) and others
Water mold (oomycete, not a true fungus) that thrives in cool damp conditions. Spreads rapidly through cucurbit and brassica plantings on wind-borne spores.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Calcium deficiency physiological disorder
Not a true disease but a calcium-uptake disorder caused by inconsistent soil moisture during fruit development. The dominant cause of damaged first-fruit on home tomato plantings.
Capnodium spp.
Black fungal coating that grows on honeydew secreted by aphids, scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Doesn't infect plant tissue directly but blocks photosynthesis and disfigures fruit.
Tomato spotted wilt orthotospovirus (TSWV)
Virus vectored by thrips, particularly western flower thrips. Wide host range and growing global distribution. No cure once infected.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 9b.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- Tomato + Basil
The classic Italian pairing. Basil's volatile oils are reported to repel hornworms and whiteflies, and the two crops share the same warm-season schedule and water needs. Plant basil between tomato cages.
- Sweet Pepper + Basil
Same warm-season culture, same watering schedule. Basil reportedly improves pepper flavor and repels aphids and thrips that are pepper's primary pests.
- Hot Pepper + Basil
Compatible heat-loving culture, similar water needs. Basil interplanted between hot pepper plants supports beneficial insects and reduces aphid pressure.
- Lettuce + Tomato
Lettuce planted at tomato's base benefits from afternoon shade as the tomato grows, extending the lettuce harvest into early summer. Different root depths avoid competition.
- Cabbage + Onion
Onion smell confuses cabbage moth. Both prefer similar moisture and fertility. The onion-cabbage interplanting is a Northern European tradition.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Phoenix
First, embrace succession planting. Plant cool-season crops like tomatoes and peppers in late January or February for spring harvest, then stop planting in May. Resume in mid-July when soil cools slightly, targeting a fall harvest after summer heat breaks. This timing avoids planting directly into lethal heat. Second, use shade cloth aggressively. 30 to 50 percent shade cloth over vegetable beds in June and July keeps soil cooler and reduces plant stress, directly improving productivity and fruit-set. Third, figs and pomegranates are underrated in Phoenix. Both thrive on the heat and long season, often producing two flushes of fruit in favorable years. Plant in well-draining soil and water deeply but infrequently, matching desert conditions.
Frequently asked questions
- What grows best year-round in Phoenix?
Root crops, leafy greens, and herbs grow nearly year-round with proper timing. Plant lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and kale in fall (October-November) through early spring. Herbs like rosemary, sage, and lavender thrive across all seasons. Figs, Asian persimmons, and pomegranates produce reliably on the 365-day growing season. Avoid tender annuals like tomatoes and basil during mid-summer.
- When do you plant tomatoes in Phoenix?
Plant transplants in late January through February for spring harvest. Growth accelerates in March and April; harvest peaks in May before heat stress hits. For a fall crop, plant again in mid-July when soil cools. This two-crop strategy avoids the lethal June-August heat window.
- Is frost damage a real concern in Phoenix?
Frost is almost never a garden-ending risk. Temperatures below freezing occur rarely, typically one or two nights per year if that. However, tender perennials like figs can be damaged in an unusually severe winter. Plant frost-sensitive crops in warm microclimates (south-facing walls, beneath larger trees) as insurance.
- How do you manage water in a Phoenix garden?
Deep, infrequent watering works best. Water less often but thoroughly to encourage deep root growth, mimicking desert rainfall patterns. Drip irrigation is essential. Mulch heavily (3 to 4 inches) to conserve soil moisture. Check local water restrictions and plan around irrigation schedules. Drought-tolerant crops like pomegranate, jujube, and figs need less frequent watering once established.
- Which zone 9b fruits thrive in Phoenix's heat?
Figs, Asian persimmons, pomegranates, jujubes, and goji berries are exceptionally well-suited to the heat and long season. All are more heat-tolerant than apples, pears, or traditional stone fruits. Goji berries specifically thrive in intense sun and low humidity. Persimmons produce heavily and require minimal management.
- What is the single biggest challenge in Phoenix gardening?
Summer heat. Temperatures above 110°F regularly shut down flowering and fruit-set in most crops. It is the binding constraint that forces double-cropping strategies and careful variety selection. Desert gardeners succeed by planning the year around avoiding peak heat, not around frost.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00023183. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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