ZonePlant

Local planting guide

Anchorage, AK

zip 99509

Anchorage is in USDA hardiness zone 5a, with average winter lows of -20°F to -15°F. The local growing season runs roughly 05/01 through 09/29 (~150 days).

USDA zone
5a -20°F to -15°F
Last spring frost
05/01
First fall frost
09/29
Growing season
150 days
Compatible crops
79

Right now in Anchorage

Week 18 priorities

On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →

Gardening in Anchorage

Gardening in Anchorage occupies a narrow band of possibility. Zone 5a winters reach -20 to -15°F, which eliminates many tender species but is manageable for deciduous trees and hardy perennials. The real constraint is growing season length: 150 days from last spring frost (May 1) to first fall frost (September 29). This is tight by most standards and tighter still given Anchorage's cool summers and frequent cloud cover, which limit cumulative warmth and sunlight and make succession planting less forgiving than in other zone 5a regions. Early-maturing varieties of apples, pears, and cherries thrive within this timeline. Peaches and European plums are possible but demand protected southfacing walls and cultivars bred for short-season regions. American persimmons and pawpaws push the limits; pawpaws especially struggle with Anchorage's cooler growing season and marginal heat. Home gardeners here succeed by treating season length as the primary constraint, not winter cold. Variety selection is paramount. A 90-day peach is a reasonable gamble; a 110-day peach will not ripen most years. The same logic applies to warm-season vegetables. Choose early-maturing tomato and pepper varieties, or grow them against a south wall to accumulate extra heat.

Common challenges

Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 5a, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.

  • Fire blight in pears
  • Cedar-apple rust
  • Late spring frosts

What defeats new gardeners in Anchorage

Late spring frosts arrive as recently as May 1, which coincides with bud break on many trees and shrubs. An unexpected hard frost in early May can kill emerging flower buds, wiping out that year's crop; peaches and sweet cherries are particularly vulnerable because they flower early. Second, summer heat is insufficient for many warm-season crops. Peaches demand sustained warmth during the growing season and struggle unless planted against a south-facing wall or in a protected corner. Third, the short 150-day season tolerates no delays. Vegetables and fruits need sufficient time to mature before September 29 arrives. A late-planted tomato, a slow-ripening peach variety, or a succession planting started in late June becomes a total loss.

Crops that grow in Anchorage

79 crops from our catalog match zone 5a, grouped by type.

Tree fruit

10 crops

See all 10 tree fruit for zone 5a →

Berries

20 crops

See all 20 berries for zone 5a →

Nuts

4 crops

Vegetables

36 crops

See all 36 vegetables for zone 5a →

Herbs

9 crops

See all 9 herbs for zone 5a →

Plan the year

Planting calendar for Anchorage

Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Anchorage's local frost dates.

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This week in Anchorage, AK (zone 5a)

Quiet week in Anchorage, AK (zone 5a). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.

Nothing critical on the calendar this week.

393 bars · 79 crops

Filter

Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.

Top pests for zone 5a

Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.

Mule Deer (Odocoileus hemionus) sniff (deer-damage)
Deer Browse 29 crops

Odocoileus species

Whitetail and mule deer browse can devastate orchards and gardens, particularly in winter when food is scarce. Antler rub on young trunks kills saplings outright.

Blattlaeuse-JR-T3-I176-2024-09-22 (aphid)
Aphid 28 crops

Multiple species (Aphididae)

Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.

Multiple Plant Species- microhabitats (bird-damage)
Bird Damage 23 crops

Multiple species

Robins, catbirds, mockingbirds, starlings, cedar waxwings and other songbirds can strip ripening berry and fruit crops in days. Crows and blackbirds also damage fresh sweet corn ears in milk stage. The single biggest yield-loss factor in unprotected home plantings.

Sylvilagus palustris in Sanibel Island 02 (rabbit-damage)
Rabbit Damage 21 crops

Sylvilagus and Lepus species

Cottontails and jackrabbits strip bark from young fruit trees in winter and graze tender garden vegetables year-round, especially seedlings.

Lochmaea (10.3897-zookeys.856.30838) Figure 10 (flea-beetle)
Flea Beetle 16 crops

Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)

Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.

Drosophila suzukii smulans2 (spotted-wing-drosophila)
Spotted Wing Drosophila 15 crops

Drosophila suzukii

Invasive vinegar fly that attacks ripening soft fruit, unlike native Drosophila species which target overripe fruit. Now the dominant berry-and-cherry pest across the US.

Tetranychus urticae on sweet pepper, Bonenspintmijt op paprika (2) (two-spotted-spider-mite)
Two-Spotted Spider Mite 15 crops

Tetranychus urticae

Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.

Microtus lavernedii (Cantabria, Spain) (vole-damage)
Vole Damage 15 crops

Microtus species

Field voles and meadow voles girdle young fruit-tree trunks under snow cover during winter and chew root crops. The leading cause of mysterious orchard losses.

All pests →

Top diseases for zone 5a

Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.

Gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) on Rosa sp-5573591 (gray-mold)
Gray Mold (Botrytis) fungal

Botrytis cinerea

Ubiquitous fungal disease that causes fruit rot during cool wet weather, often the dominant berry disease in humid regions.

Downy mildew on leaves of Cucumis sativus (downy-mildew-cucurbit)
Downy Mildew fungal

Pseudoperonospora cubensis (cucurbits) and others

Water mold (oomycete, not a true fungus) that thrives in cool damp conditions. Spreads rapidly through cucurbit and brassica plantings on wind-borne spores.

Seedlings - Flickr - peganum (3) (damping-off)
Damping Off fungal

Pythium and Rhizoctonia species

Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.

Tobacco mosaic virus symptoms tobacco (mosaic-virus)
Mosaic Virus viral

Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others

Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.

Crown Gall of Sunflower (crown-gall)
Crown Gall bacterial

Agrobacterium tumefaciens

Soil-borne bacterium that enters plants through wounds and induces tumor-like galls on roots, crown, and lower stems. Galls reduce vigor and shorten plant lifespan; on Rubus the disease is often fatal.

Plasmodiophora brassicae on cauliflower, Knolvoet bij bloemkool (clubroot)
Clubroot fungal

Plasmodiophora brassicae

Soil-borne disease causing characteristic distorted club-shaped roots on brassicas. Persists in soil for 10-20 years; the dominant brassica pathogen in acidic poorly-drained soils.

Elsinoë veneta a1 (8) (anthracnose-cane)
Cane Anthracnose fungal

Elsinoe veneta

Fungal cane disease causing purple-bordered lesions that girdle and weaken bramble and Ribes canes, reducing yield over consecutive seasons.

Ligustrum lucidum IMG 2904 (phytophthora-root-rot)
Phytophthora Root Rot fungal

Phytophthora species

Soil-borne water mold that destroys roots in waterlogged soils, the leading cause of blueberry decline in poorly drained sites.

All diseases →

Companion planting suggestions

Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 5a.

All companion pairs →

Soil types reference

Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.

Practical tips for Anchorage

Choose varieties explicitly bred for short seasons. Look for early-maturing cultivars when selecting fruit trees and vegetables. For peaches and plums, prioritize 90-day or shorter timeframes. For vegetables, select tomato and pepper varieties with shorter maturity windows (under 80 days) rather than lengthy-season types. Starting seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the May 1 last-frost date gives transplants a head start.

Use southfacing walls and thermal mass to extend warmth. Peaches and sweet cherries benefit substantially from reflected afternoon sun off a south-facing wall. Containers painted dark allow flexibility to move plants to protected corners if frost threatens in May or September.

Time succession plantings conservatively. Direct-sow root crops and brassicas in late May through early June, targeting harvest before September 29 arrives. Don't rush transplanting warm-season crops before May 1.

Frequently asked questions

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What fruit trees grow reliably in Anchorage?

Apples, pears, sour cherries, and European plums succeed consistently. Sweet cherries are possible with early-maturing varieties. Peaches require protected southfacing walls and early cultivars. Pawpaws struggle with the short season and cool summers.

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When should I plant warm-season crops like tomatoes?

Plant transplants outdoors after May 1. Start seeds indoors in late February or early March to give plants time to mature before September 29 arrives.

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Can I grow peaches in Anchorage?

Yes, but only early-maturing varieties (90 days or less) planted against a southfacing wall or in a protected corner. Most standard peach varieties will not ripen in time.

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What's the biggest weather risk for Anchorage gardeners?

Late frosts in May kill flower buds on trees breaking dormancy, wiping out the season's crop. Early frosts in late September also cut short the growing season for vegetables.

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How can I extend the growing season?

Use row covers and cold frames to add 2 to 4 weeks on either end. Start seeds indoors to allow transplants to mature fully before September 29.

Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00026409. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.

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