Local planting guide · Mid-Atlantic
zip 19109
Philadelphia is in USDA hardiness zone 7b, with average winter lows of 5°F to 10°F. The local growing season runs roughly 04/02 through 11/10 (~224 days). This zip falls within the Mid-Atlantic growing region.
- USDA zone
- 7b 5°F to 10°F
- Last spring frost
- 04/02
- First fall frost
- 11/10
- Growing season
- 224 days
- Compatible crops
- 83
- Growing region
- Mid-Atlantic
Right now in Philadelphia
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Philadelphia
The Philadelphia climate falls squarely in USDA zone 7b, with winter lows between 5 and 10 degrees Fahrenheit. The growing season spans from April 2 (average last spring frost) to November 10 (average first fall frost), yielding 224 days of frost-free conditions. This window is long enough for most deciduous fruit trees to establish and bear, but the spring frost date carries real risk for crops with early-blooming buds.
Philadelphia's chief constraint is summer humidity. The region's warm, moist air creates conditions favorable for fungal diseases: fire blight on pears and apples, brown rot on stone fruits, and leaf spot on cherries. Combine that with heavy clay soils common across the mid-Atlantic and the typical late-spring chill, and variety selection becomes critical.
What grows well here: apples and pears are reliable workhorses if chosen for disease resistance. European plums outperform Japanese varieties in local humidity and clay. Peaches thrive in zone 7b, though late frost in early April can damage emerging fruit buds in some years. Sweet cherries are ambitious but possible with careful variety and site selection. Figs are borderline hardy and require protected microclimates, but established trees in the right location have survived Philadelphia winters for decades.
Regional context · Mid-Atlantic
What the Mid-Atlantic brings to Philadelphia
Transition zone between North and South. Apples, peaches, grapes, and blueberries do well; long enough warm season for tomatoes and peppers, cool enough winter for stone-fruit chill.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 7b, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ Cedar-apple rust pressure heavy in piedmont
- ▸ Japanese beetles
- ▸ Brown marmorated stink bug
- ▸ Late summer disease pressure
What defeats new gardeners in Philadelphia
Late-spring frost is the most visible threat. April 2 frosts arrive after many early-blooming varieties have already broken dormancy, especially peaches and early apples. A hard freeze on April 5 or 10 can decimate fruit buds set during warm March days.
Humidity-driven fungal disease is the chronic pressure. Fire blight on pears and apples, brown rot on stone fruits, and leaf spot on cherries propagate in Philadelphia's warm, wet springs and summers. Fungicide programs help, but they demand discipline and timing. Poorly sited trees (too much shade, poor air circulation) become disease reservoirs.
Heavy clay soils drain poorly, especially in low-lying areas typical of Philadelphia neighborhoods. Waterlogged soil in spring invites root rot. Amending clay is labor-intensive; many gardeners underestimate the effort required.
Crops that grow in Philadelphia
83 crops from our catalog match zone 7b, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
15 crops
zone 7b Apple
Malus domestica
zones 3a–9a
zone 7b Pear
Pyrus communis
zones 4a–8b
zone 7b Peach
Prunus persica
zones 5a–9a
zone 7b European Plum
Prunus domestica
zones 4a–8a
zone 7b Japanese Plum
Prunus salicina
zones 5b–9a
zone 7b Sweet Cherry
Prunus avium
zones 5a–8a
zone 7b Sour Cherry
Prunus cerasus
zones 4a–7b
zone 7b Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
Berries
12 crops
zone 7b Highbush Blueberry
Vaccinium corymbosum
zones 4a–7b
zone 7b Rabbiteye Blueberry
Vaccinium virgatum
zones 7a–9a
zone 7b Red Raspberry
Rubus idaeus
zones 3b–8a
zone 7b Black Raspberry
Rubus occidentalis
zones 4a–8a
zone 7b Yellow Raspberry
Rubus idaeus
zones 3b–8a
zone 7b Blackberry
Rubus subgenus Rubus
zones 5a–9a
zone 7b June-Bearing Strawberry
Fragaria x ananassa
zones 3a–8b
zone 7b Everbearing Strawberry
Fragaria x ananassa
zones 3b–9a
Nuts
6 cropsVegetables
40 crops
zone 7b Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 7b Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 7b Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 7b Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 7b Potato
Solanum tuberosum
zones 3a–9a
zone 7b Cabbage
Brassica oleracea var. capitata
zones 3a–9b
zone 7b Broccoli
Brassica oleracea var. italica
zones 3a–9a
zone 7b Cauliflower
Brassica oleracea var. botrytis
zones 3b–9a
Herbs
10 crops
zone 7b Basil
Ocimum basilicum
zones 4a–10b
zone 7b Parsley
Petroselinum crispum
zones 3b–9b
zone 7b Cilantro / Coriander
Coriandrum sativum
zones 3b–9b
zone 7b Dill
Anethum graveolens
zones 3b–9a
zone 7b Oregano
Origanum vulgare
zones 4a–9b
zone 7b Thyme
Thymus vulgaris
zones 4a–9a
zone 7b Rosemary
Salvia rosmarinus
zones 7a–10b
zone 7b Sage
Salvia officinalis
zones 4a–9a
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Philadelphia
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Philadelphia's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Philadelphia, PA (zone 7b)
Quiet week in Philadelphia, PA (zone 7b). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
418 bars · 83 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 7b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Odocoileus species
Whitetail and mule deer browse can devastate orchards and gardens, particularly in winter when food is scarce. Antler rub on young trunks kills saplings outright.
Sylvilagus and Lepus species
Cottontails and jackrabbits strip bark from young fruit trees in winter and graze tender garden vegetables year-round, especially seedlings.
Popillia japonica
Defoliating beetle introduced to North America in 1916. Skeletonizes leaves of many fruit trees, berry canes, and pecan.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Microtus species
Field voles and meadow voles girdle young fruit-tree trunks under snow cover during winter and chew root crops. The leading cause of mysterious orchard losses.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Top diseases for zone 7b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Pseudoperonospora cubensis (cucurbits) and others
Water mold (oomycete, not a true fungus) that thrives in cool damp conditions. Spreads rapidly through cucurbit and brassica plantings on wind-borne spores.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Botrytis cinerea
Ubiquitous fungal disease that causes fruit rot during cool wet weather, often the dominant berry disease in humid regions.
Agrobacterium tumefaciens
Soil-borne bacterium that enters plants through wounds and induces tumor-like galls on roots, crown, and lower stems. Galls reduce vigor and shorten plant lifespan; on Rubus the disease is often fatal.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Plasmodiophora brassicae
Soil-borne disease causing characteristic distorted club-shaped roots on brassicas. Persists in soil for 10-20 years; the dominant brassica pathogen in acidic poorly-drained soils.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 7b.
- Peach + Garlic
Garlic planted around peach trees suppresses peach borer and provides general fungal-pressure reduction.
- European Plum + Garlic
Garlic discourages plum curculio and provides general antifungal benefit beneath stone fruit.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- American Persimmon + Pawpaw
Both natives thrive in similar soils and contribute to a polyculture that supports native pollinators and fauna.
- Jujube + Thyme
Thyme groundcover suits jujube's low-water profile and deters cabbage moth and aphid populations.
- Apricot + Basil
Basil's volatile oils discourage stone-fruit pests and support pollinator visits.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Philadelphia
Don't rush to plant frost-sensitive crops. The April 2 frost date is an average; one in ten springs sees a freeze into late April. Waiting until mid-May to set out peach saplings or transplant tender material reduces frost-damage risk.
Choose disease-resistant varieties and space trees for air flow. Fire blight hammers pears and susceptible apples. Select resistant cultivars such as Liberty or Priscilla for apples and Magness for pears. Plant trees 20 or more feet apart and thin crowns in mid-summer to reduce humidity inside the canopy.
Amend heavy clay soils before planting. Philadelphia's clay holds water and compacts easily. Raise planting mounds, mix compost into backfill, and ensure drainage away from trunks. Poor drainage leads to root rot and early failure.
Frequently asked questions
- What fruit trees grow best in Philadelphia?
Apples, pears, and European plums are most reliable. Choose disease-resistant varieties: Liberty or Priscilla for apples; Magness for pears. Peaches do well in zone 7b but risk late-April frost damage; Contender is hardy and later-blooming. Sweet cherries are possible but demand careful site selection and fungicide discipline.
- When should I plant fruit trees in Philadelphia?
Late fall (October to November) or early spring (March, before buds break) are the safest windows. Spring planting lets trees establish roots before summer heat. Avoid May to August planting; heat stress in the first season is brutal. Bare-root trees establish faster than containerized stock.
- What's the biggest weather risk for fruit trees here?
Late-spring frost. The average last frost is April 2, but hard freezes can occur into late April one or two years per decade. Early-blooming varieties like peaches and early apples are vulnerable. Choose later-blooming cultivars or be prepared to frost-protect with burlap or frost cloth.
- How do I prevent fire blight on my pears?
Buy disease-resistant pear varieties (Magness, Potomac). Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer. When blight appears, prune affected branches 12 inches below the damage; sterilize tools between cuts. In spring, apply copper or antibiotic sprays during bloom and warm, wet weather.
- Can I grow figs in Philadelphia?
Figs are borderline hardy in zone 7b. Chicago Hardy and similar cultivars survive Philadelphia winters in protected spots like south-facing walls. Most winters the tree persists; very hard freezes can kill above-ground growth, though roots may resprout.
- What should I do about heavy clay soil?
Amend it before planting. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and fill with a 50/50 mix of native clay and compost. Raise the planting mound slightly to improve drainage. Ensure water drains away from tree trunks within a few feet. Use French drains for persistent low spots.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00013739. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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