Local planting guide · Mid-Atlantic
zip 22226
Arlington is in USDA hardiness zone 7b, with average winter lows of 5°F to 10°F. The local growing season runs roughly 03/24 through 11/18 (~241 days). This zip falls within the Mid-Atlantic growing region.
- USDA zone
- 7b 5°F to 10°F
- Last spring frost
- 03/24
- First fall frost
- 11/18
- Growing season
- 241 days
- Compatible crops
- 83
- Growing region
- Mid-Atlantic
Right now in Arlington
Week 18 priorities
On the docket: transplant out after last frost · direct sow after last frost. See the full calendar →
Gardening in Arlington
Arlington sits in zone 7b, with winter lows averaging 5 to 10°F. The 241-day growing season is moderate for the zone; the constraint is not cold but the unpredictability of spring. Last spring frost typically arrives around March 24, but this date masks a common Northern Virginia pattern: a warm spell in late February or early March can trigger bud break in stone fruits and early-leafing perennials, followed by a hard freeze that kills the flowers or emerging shoots. This late-frost risk is the defining challenge for fruit growers here.
Summers are humid and warm, which favors fungal diseases. The Potomac River drainage and proximity to D.C. create a heat-island effect in Arlington proper, raising nighttime temperatures and potentially stressing cool-season crops. Despite these challenges, the area reliably grows apples, pears, peaches, Japanese and European plums, cherries, and figs. The long frost-free season (241 days through November 18) supports a full crop cycle for these fruits.
The real advantage is soil. Arlington's Northern Virginia location means adequate moisture and neutral to slightly acid soil in most yards. The challenge is preparation: many lots are compacted from construction or have poor drainage. Amending soil before planting saves years of struggle.
Regional context · Mid-Atlantic
What the Mid-Atlantic brings to Arlington
Transition zone between North and South. Apples, peaches, grapes, and blueberries do well; long enough warm season for tomatoes and peppers, cool enough winter for stone-fruit chill.
Common challenges
Issues that most often defeat home gardeners in zone 7b, drawn from the broader USDA zone profile.
- ▸ Cedar-apple rust pressure heavy in piedmont
- ▸ Japanese beetles
- ▸ Brown marmorated stink bug
- ▸ Late summer disease pressure
What defeats new gardeners in Arlington
Late-spring frosts are the most frequent crop killer in Arlington. A warm spell in February or early March wakes buds on apples, pears, and stone fruits; the subsequent frost, likely around March 24 or later, blackens the flowers. Peach and cherry buds are especially vulnerable because they break early in response to mild weather.
Summer humidity creates sustained conditions for fungal diseases. Powdery mildew, cedar-apple rust, and bacterial leaf spot thrive in the warm, moist air. Apple and pear trees often need preventive fungicide sprays from late May through August, especially in wet years.
Deer and vole damage round out the trinity of problems. Northern Virginia suburbs have abundant deer populations, and newly planted trees are prime targets for bark rubbing (bucks in fall) and bark stripping (deer in winter when food is scarce). Voles girdle roots of young trees.
Crops that grow in Arlington
83 crops from our catalog match zone 7b, grouped by type.
Tree fruit
15 crops
zone 7b Apple
Malus domestica
zones 3a–9a
zone 7b Pear
Pyrus communis
zones 4a–8b
zone 7b Peach
Prunus persica
zones 5a–9a
zone 7b European Plum
Prunus domestica
zones 4a–8a
zone 7b Japanese Plum
Prunus salicina
zones 5b–9a
zone 7b Sweet Cherry
Prunus avium
zones 5a–8a
zone 7b Sour Cherry
Prunus cerasus
zones 4a–7b
zone 7b Fig
Ficus carica
zones 7a–10b
Berries
12 crops
zone 7b Highbush Blueberry
Vaccinium corymbosum
zones 4a–7b
zone 7b Rabbiteye Blueberry
Vaccinium virgatum
zones 7a–9a
zone 7b Red Raspberry
Rubus idaeus
zones 3b–8a
zone 7b Black Raspberry
Rubus occidentalis
zones 4a–8a
zone 7b Yellow Raspberry
Rubus idaeus
zones 3b–8a
zone 7b Blackberry
Rubus subgenus Rubus
zones 5a–9a
zone 7b June-Bearing Strawberry
Fragaria x ananassa
zones 3a–8b
zone 7b Everbearing Strawberry
Fragaria x ananassa
zones 3b–9a
Nuts
6 cropsVegetables
40 crops
zone 7b Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
zones 3a–10b
zone 7b Sweet Pepper
Capsicum annuum
zones 4a–10b
zone 7b Hot Pepper
Capsicum species
zones 4a–10b
zone 7b Eggplant
Solanum melongena
zones 5a–10b
zone 7b Potato
Solanum tuberosum
zones 3a–9a
zone 7b Cabbage
Brassica oleracea var. capitata
zones 3a–9b
zone 7b Broccoli
Brassica oleracea var. italica
zones 3a–9a
zone 7b Cauliflower
Brassica oleracea var. botrytis
zones 3b–9a
Herbs
10 crops
zone 7b Basil
Ocimum basilicum
zones 4a–10b
zone 7b Parsley
Petroselinum crispum
zones 3b–9b
zone 7b Cilantro / Coriander
Coriandrum sativum
zones 3b–9b
zone 7b Dill
Anethum graveolens
zones 3b–9a
zone 7b Oregano
Origanum vulgare
zones 4a–9b
zone 7b Thyme
Thymus vulgaris
zones 4a–9a
zone 7b Rosemary
Salvia rosmarinus
zones 7a–10b
zone 7b Sage
Salvia officinalis
zones 4a–9a
Plan the year
Planting calendar for Arlington
Year-view of seed starting, transplanting, planting, pruning, fertilizing, harvest, and pest-watch windows tuned to Arlington's local frost dates.
Week ? · loading
This week in Arlington, VA (zone 7b)
Quiet week in Arlington, VA (zone 7b). this week is a good time to step back and plan ahead.
Nothing critical on the calendar this week.
418 bars · 83 crops
Calendar logic combines NOAA frost normals with crop-specific timing data. Local microclimate and weather always overrules the calendar; use this as a starting point.
Top pests for zone 7b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for IPM controls and signs to watch for.
Multiple species (Aphididae)
Small soft-bodied sap-sucking insects that reproduce explosively in spring. Excrete honeydew that supports sooty mold and attracts ants. Transmit viral diseases.
Odocoileus species
Whitetail and mule deer browse can devastate orchards and gardens, particularly in winter when food is scarce. Antler rub on young trunks kills saplings outright.
Sylvilagus and Lepus species
Cottontails and jackrabbits strip bark from young fruit trees in winter and graze tender garden vegetables year-round, especially seedlings.
Popillia japonica
Defoliating beetle introduced to North America in 1916. Skeletonizes leaves of many fruit trees, berry canes, and pecan.
Multiple species (Chrysomelidae)
Tiny black or bronze jumping beetles that put hundreds of small holes in seedling leaves. Most damaging on direct-seeded brassicas and young eggplant.
Microtus species
Field voles and meadow voles girdle young fruit-tree trunks under snow cover during winter and chew root crops. The leading cause of mysterious orchard losses.
Meloidogyne species
Microscopic soil-dwelling worm that forms galls on roots, reducing vigor and yield.
Tetranychus urticae
Tiny mite that feeds on leaf undersides, causing stippling and webbing during hot dry weather.
Top diseases for zone 7b
Ranked by how many crops in your zone they affect. Click through for symptoms, controls, and resistant varieties.
Pseudoperonospora cubensis (cucurbits) and others
Water mold (oomycete, not a true fungus) that thrives in cool damp conditions. Spreads rapidly through cucurbit and brassica plantings on wind-borne spores.
Pythium and Rhizoctonia species
Soil-borne complex of water molds and fungi that kill seedlings before or shortly after emergence. The single most common cause of seed-starting failures.
Cucumber mosaic virus, Tobacco mosaic virus, and others
Family of plant viruses producing mottled yellow-and-green leaf patterns. Vectored primarily by aphids; some are seed-transmitted or spread by handling tools and tobacco products.
Botrytis cinerea
Ubiquitous fungal disease that causes fruit rot during cool wet weather, often the dominant berry disease in humid regions.
Agrobacterium tumefaciens
Soil-borne bacterium that enters plants through wounds and induces tumor-like galls on roots, crown, and lower stems. Galls reduce vigor and shorten plant lifespan; on Rubus the disease is often fatal.
Fusarium oxysporum
Soil-borne fungal disease that plugs vascular tissue and kills affected plants. Persists in soil for many years; impossible to eliminate once established.
Sclerotium rolfsii
Soil-borne fungal disease most damaging in warm humid Southern conditions. White mycelial fans and small mustard-seed-sized sclerotia at the soil line are diagnostic.
Plasmodiophora brassicae
Soil-borne disease causing characteristic distorted club-shaped roots on brassicas. Persists in soil for 10-20 years; the dominant brassica pathogen in acidic poorly-drained soils.
Companion planting suggestions
Beneficial pairings drawn from companion data, filtered to crops that grow in zone 7b.
- Peach + Garlic
Garlic planted around peach trees suppresses peach borer and provides general fungal-pressure reduction.
- European Plum + Garlic
Garlic discourages plum curculio and provides general antifungal benefit beneath stone fruit.
- Fig + Rosemary
Rosemary tolerates the dry sites figs prefer and provides aromatic pest deterrence.
- American Persimmon + Pawpaw
Both natives thrive in similar soils and contribute to a polyculture that supports native pollinators and fauna.
- Jujube + Thyme
Thyme groundcover suits jujube's low-water profile and deters cabbage moth and aphid populations.
- Apricot + Basil
Basil's volatile oils discourage stone-fruit pests and support pollinator visits.
Soil types reference
Soil texture and pH decide what grows easily on your specific lot. Find the closest match below for crop recommendations and amendment guidance.
Practical tips for Arlington
Wait for the March 24 frost before planting frost-sensitive crops. Soil warms rapidly in mid-March, tempting early planting of tender annuals like basil, sweet potato slips, or tender herbs. Waiting until late March or early April, after the last frost has passed, avoids the frustration and waste of replanting after a kill frost.
Choose disease-resistant varieties. The summer humidity favors fungal pressure, particularly powdery mildew and scab. Apples such as 'Priscilla' and 'Liberty' have excellent powdery mildew and scab resistance. Peach varieties bred for disease tolerance (e.g., 'Contender') substantially reduce the summer fungicide burden.
Protect newly planted trees from deer immediately. A 6-foot rigid fence, heavy plastic tree guards, or individual netting on young trees prevents the bark damage that often kills second-year growth. Wait until trees are established (3-4 years) before relying on spacing or height alone for protection.
Frequently asked questions
- What grows best in Arlington?
Apples, pears, peaches, and both European and Japanese plums reliably produce here. Stone fruits (peach, plum, cherry) need careful variety selection to avoid late-frost damage. Figs survive most winters in Arlington and are worth trying in warm microclimates.
- When should tender crops like tomatoes and basil be planted?
Plant after March 24, Arlington's average last spring frost. By late March or early April, soil temperatures are rising and frost risk has passed. Start seeds indoors 6 weeks earlier (early February) to have transplants ready for this window.
- What is the biggest threat to fruit trees in Arlington?
Late-spring frosts that kill blossoms after warm spells in late February or March. Peach and cherry buds break early; a freeze in March wipes out the crop. Choose late-blooming or frost-hardy varieties like 'Reliance' peach to reduce this risk.
- How can newly planted trees be protected from deer?
Install a rigid 6-foot fence, use individual tree guards (spirals or plastic sleeves), or net individual trees for the first 3-4 years. Deer and vole damage is common in Arlington suburbs; protection in early years prevents permanent bark damage that kills the tree.
- Is fungicide necessary for fruit trees?
Most years, yes. Arlington's summer humidity favors powdery mildew, apple scab, and rust. Disease-resistant varieties reduce spraying burden. Susceptible varieties (standard 'Red Delicious' apple, most traditional peach cultivars) need preventive sprays from late May through August.
- When should fruit trees be pruned?
Late February or early March, before bud break. Pruning while dormant encourages strong spring growth and shapes the tree before the season starts. Avoid late-fall pruning, which can cause cold damage to new tender shoots.
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Frost data: NOAA Climate Normals 1991-2020, station USW00013743. Local microclimates can shift these dates by a week or more.
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